Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Amsterdam Seventy-Nine: Your Groove, I Do Deeply Dig


I indexed most of the day. The book was on early childhood development. One thing that struck me in all of the books I had indexed on early childhood development was the importance of play. Every time I came across play in similar books, I was convinced that play was essential for adult development as well. Adult play is usually interpreted as creativity. Creativity without a sense of play, though, is work. Much of my writing and sketching was play and often enough I wrote about play as a form of play. For me, the “play within the play” had an entirely different than it within pop culture references to Shakepeare.

Sometimes, though, my play spilled over into everyday adult life. When I went to Albert Heyn to shop in the afternoon, I brought my sense of play with me, creating histories for each of the products on the shelves as I shopped. I had a world culture in my cart as I stepped to the checkout line. The grocery store on the corner Vijzelstraat and Kerkstraat was usually busy and it was no different that afternoon. There were only two checkout lines open and each was about a dozen deep with customers. Knowing it was going to take some time to get to the front of the line and feeling as playful as I was, I turned to the well-dressed man behind me, probably in his thirties, handsome and tall with wavy Dutch-blonde hair, and asked him to tell me about the best practical joke he had ever played on anyone. He stared at me blankly without answering.

Not satisfied to let the topic go, I said, “You look intelligent and well-educated so I’m going to assume that you speak English. The best practical joke I have ever encountered was performed by a good friend of mine in college named Tim. He and his roommate had been at war with the guys in the dorm room next to them throughout the first semester of their sophomore year. Their neighbors had pennied their door one night and they couldn’t get out the next day to go to their classes. They were stuck in their rooming begging for someone in the hallway to open the door. They only responses they received were laughter until security came to save them in the afternoon.

“So Tim and his roommate vowed to get even. One night in the following week, Tim came home drunk, took a shit in an empty pizza box in his room, and put it into the freezer of their fridge. The next day, his roommate had the brilliant idea of collecting their shits, putting them in a paper sack, and saving them before heating up the frozen turds in their neighbor’s microwave.

“Over the next week, they collected shit after shit and put them in a paper bag that they kept in the freezer. They continued to wait for the right moment and one evening when a  bunch of people were hanging out in the hallway bullshitting, including their neighbors, Tim asked one of the neighbors who had performed the prank on them the previous week if he could heat up some egg rolls using their microwave. The guy said ‘Sure, no problem,’ so Tim took the bag of frozen shit and put it into the neighbors’ microwave while his roommate made sure the neighbors stayed occupied.

“Now, Tim had no idea how long to cook the shit so he insanely set the timer for four minutes. You stick a couple slices of frozen pizza in a microwave to heat them up and you set the timer for maybe a minute or a minute and half. So four minutes was ridiculous. Tim was clueless, though. After he started the microwave, he went out into the hallway and pretended to join the conversation. Every thirty seconds or so he’d go back to the microwave to check on it.”

By this point in the story, the blonde guy was smiling, listening intently. I noticed that there were people in the other line smiling and listening as well, even an elderly man and woman with a young boy. I noticed whenever I turned to check to see if I needed to move forward that the guy in line in front of me was listening, too. I was having as much fun telling the story as they seemed to be having while listening.

I continued. “After about two and a half minutes, the room was starting to stink. Tim inconspicuously closed the door when he went back out to the conversation in the hallway. His roommate was looking at him like, ‘how much longer do I have to keep this going?’ Tim gave him a wink and after another fifteen seconds or more he went back into the room. The smell was overwhelming and Tim started gagging so he left the room again.

“By this time, the stench was spilling into the hallway even with the door closed. After another thirty seconds, the hallway reeked and people were coming out of their rooms holding their noses. Tim went back into the room. It wasn’t quite four minutes, but Tim’s eyes were watering and he was close to puking so he stopped the microwave, opened it up, and took out the bag—the stench so foul he became dizzy. He ran out of the room holding his nose with one hand and the bag with the other, bolting down the hallway to a public restrooms and tossing it in the garbage.

“By this time, not only was the entire hallway flooded with toxic fumes, but so were all of the rooms on the fourth floor, even those with doors closed. The hallways in the second through fifth floors of the building also smelled putrid. Tim ran from the bathroom to my dorm room, which was in a section of the fourth floor that was shut off from the main hallway by a door. My roommate, Keith, and I had been chilling out watching the David Letterman Show when he flung open our door and stumbled inside, collapsing to the floor. His face was completely red, he was sweaty, tears were streaming down his cheeks, he was choking, and he smelled so bad that Keith and I jumped out of our seats wondering what the hell had happened. I quickly shut the door because the stench was bad even in our closed off hallway.

“Keith, a clean freak if ever there was one, put a towel at the base of the door to try to keep any more of the smell from wafting into the room. Tim had recovered somewhat by this point and was laughing his ass off, but he managed to tell us the story. Besides his roommate, we were the only guys who knew what he and his roommate had done. We ventured out of the room an hour later and our hallway was a little better, but when we walked out into the main hallway, the smell was still horrifying even though his room was at the opposite end. There was no one in the hallway so we walked downstairs. There was no one in the hallway on the third floor and only a couple people on the second floor who were holding their noses with perplexed looks on their faces.

“We walked downstairs to the first floor and then outside the front entrance. There were at least a hundred guys on the sidewalk and lawn out front, all of them confused, a lot of them laughing, but some bitching because they had tests or papers due the next day. This was truly a masterful practical joke unintentionally played on an entire building of guys—an all-boys' dorm where some very weird and wild shit occurred. This, though, was entirely original. If anyone found out that Tim and his roommate had done it, they probably would have been beaten so bad they would have wound up in the hospital.

As I was nearing the checkout counter, I sped up the story. “Tim’s neighbor’s though, paid the ultimate price. They had to throw away their sheets, blankets, mattresses, and all of their clothing. Anything that could absorb scents was ruined. They knew it was Tim and his roommate, but they didn’t know how they did it until each side called a truce and Tim told them. The building security and administrators tried to find out what happened, but the few who knew never said anything so it went down as possibly the greatest mystery in Keane Hall’s 100-year history.”

By that time I was nearly at the head of the line. The blonde guy who had been listening and laughing finally spoke, saying that he had never been involved with any practical jokes like that. I told him that as far as I knew there were no better practical jokes than that one. He said he had a hard time believing the neighbors didn’t fight them or turn them in to school authorities. I told him that all of them had been good friends and they were already on thin ice with school administrators for other problems so even though their entire room had been destroyed they weren’t about to rat. Besides, they couldn’t have proven anything.

After checkout, I bid the fellow adieu and happily wandered back home to index while wondering how such play furthered my development. I figured a single incident wasn’t enough to make much of a difference one way or the other, but the ongoing practice and spirit of play likely contributed to my mental and physical health. I hadn’t played at all when I was severely depressed the previous year whereas I was playing often in Amsterdam and growing increasingly happy. I liked breaking the rules of social norms in playful ways. It seemed to lift me up. If done well, it helped others smile and laugh, too

One concept I had encountered in relation to play and development was neuroplasticity. I thought of plasticity, in this sense, as the physiological correlate of creativity and spontaneity. While routines are useful in many ways, they also have the potential of calcifying thought and action. As I read education-related research between the mid-1990s and mid-2000s I became appalled at the education system in the United States. I needed only to think back about the stultifying “education” I had received during puberty and as an adolescent to know the U.S. education system was broken.

One book I indexed gave an example of a school in Scandinavia that was entirely play-based. Children were provided a variety of resources and they could choose to use any of the objects they liked for any play purposes, many of which involved concepts and applications of math, science, and language development. The teachers functioned as facilitators, only becoming involved when children asked them for assistance or if the children’s activities got out of hand in some way. Otherwise, they observed, took notes, and charted the activities of the children. As I read that case study I wished that I had been fortunate enough to have been born in northern Europe.

Some of the research I had read had been applied in U.S. schools, but mostly in private schools or in school districts with high property taxes. The system of using property taxes to fund schools definitively put the poor and even much of the middle class at a distinct disadvantage. Rural schools were also hindered. It never surprised me, having read so much of the research on education while indexing, that the United States lagged behind most “developed” countries in math, science, and reading.

The Dutch had a strange educational system, and by strange I mean surprisingly innovative. Some aspects of it were familiar to me, but their high school system was foreign. There were only elementary schools and high schools, with elementary schools having eight grades. Different educational philosophies were used at different elementary schools: Montessori Method, Pestalozzi Plan, Dalton Plan, and so on. English was taught beginning in fourth grade most often.

There were three types of high schools in Holland: VMBO, HAVO, and VMO. The elementary school teachers and administrators as well as the Cito test were used to advise pupils and parents about which high school was likely the best fit for each student. The VMBO combined vocational training with theoretical education in languages, sciences, mathematics, history, and arts. The two high schools designed (and required) for admittance to higher education were HAVO and VMO. HAVO schools prepared students for entry into universities of applied science (HBO) while VMO schools prepared students for research universities (WO).

Dutch students with a VMBO diploma were eligible to enter vocational training schools (MBOs). Students with an HAVO diploma could enter HBOs but not WOs, whereas students with VMO diplomas were qualified to enter both HBOs and WOs. In both the HAVO and VMO schools, students could choose particular subjects in a free curriculum space. In other words, personal responsibility for one’s education began in high school rather than at the higher education level. Having to demonstrate academic maturity at a younger age within compulsory education was bizarre but extremely attractive to me. In the United States, submitting students to a forced curriculum in high school was the norm.

By the time I finished indexing for the day it was six o’clock. Nina’s DJ competition started at nine. Daniel had mentioned it during conversation the previous night at van Kerkwijk. The place wasn’t far from my apartment so I had a few hours to kill. I checked my email, hoping to see a message from Sterre, but instead saw a message from Auriana: “What are you doing Saturday night? We’re having a party.” I wrote back, “No plans. What time?” I decided to send an email to Sterre, too: “Are you still in Berlin? Love to see you if you’re back in Amsterdam.”

I shut down the computer and made dinner. I had plenty of goodies from shopping earlier. I took out a cutting board, chopped up white onions, mushrooms, green peppers, jalapenos, and a garlic clove. I took out three eggs from a carton in the refrigerator and cracked them into a mixing bowl while stirring and adding the chopped vegetables. I poured a bit of milk into the mix, put the carton back in the fridge, and grated cheese from a block of cheddar. Susan’s spice rack was loaded so I grabbed oregano, basil, sea salt, ginger, and rosemary. A little of each, but I worried I had put in too much oregano. I mixed the mess together and took a few deep breaths. I wasn’t sure how it would taste—I was fucking around—but I took out the frying pan, grabbed butter from the fridge, and spread it all over the pan. I turned the heat on low.

As I stirred, there were mild signs that the mix was cooking. I turned the heat up, gave it an occasional stir before pouring just a bit of orange juice and white wine, and then squeezed a lime. The smell was strong, but didn’t seem quite right. I found a hot pepper sauce, sprinkled it liberally throughout the pan, and continued stirring. The smells were beginning to fill the kitchen and I opened a window to bring some fresh air into the room. I turned the heat up a bit more and grated more cheese into the pan. A good sizzle started and the eggs coagulated. The smell was powerful even with the window open. The mix was still slightly moist, but it was cooked to my satisfaction so I dumped the scrambled omelet into a large, low-curved bowl. I sprinkled Parmesan over it, grabbed a fork and my drink, and went to the dining table to eat.

Ignoring the rising steam, I stabbed a forkful. The cheese worked nicely holding the ingredients together. I took a bite. The mix of flavors was almost too much. I waited a few seconds after I swallowed. Yes. Yes, it was good. I ate the rest, washing it down with glass of an OJ wine spritzer. The hot pepper sauce opened my pours, bringing a refreshing sweat to my brow and cheeks, and opening up my sinuses. When I was finished I was thoroughly satisfied. I had an after-dinner cig and then then cleaned up. 

Afterward, I cleaned my pipe. When I finished, I loaded a bowl, took a couple puffs, chilled out, and sketched. At one point, I went to the couch to open the window and smoke a cigarette. I looked out on the street and admired a group of four attractive young women walking toward me. They were smiling and laughing. A long-haired blonde looked up at me as I leaned out the window as I said, “Your coat is purplicious.” She was wearing a long bright purple coat and a lavender scarf. Even her boots existed in the same sector of the color wheel, a color struggling to become violet. She smiled up at me and pulled the sides of her coat open revealing a bright purple satin blouse. I braced my thighs against the couch and began clapping and whistling. The other three were now looking up and smiling, too. They were dressed fashionably and together they made a rainbow: lime green, chartreuse, vermillion, royal blue, crimson, and more. They had all colors covered with one article of clothing or another, a rainbow on parade. “I would toss flowers to you if I had any.” They laughed as they passed by my window below. They may have been higher than I was, possibly flying on E. I blew kisses and two of them reached out their hands to grab them before turning away. I loved Kerkstraat.

I turned on the stereo to an electronica station and cranked it. I felt like moving, dancing. In no time I broke a sweat. After fifteen minutes, I turned down the stereo and changed the channel to what sounded to me like “action jazz.” It was aggressive, eclectic, probably experimental or avant garde European jazz. There were nontraditional instruments and even what sounded like garbage can lids slamming together. I went to the kitchen and pulled out a container of apple juice. I popped the lid and guzzled about a quarter of it. I grabbed a bottle of water and took it into the living room. I went to the coffee table, dumped the spent bowl into the ashtray, loaded another bud, and had a puff.

I started reading Murder in Amsterdam then got ready to go, putting on a light jacket for the cool evening air. I remembered Susan’s mail so I ran it back upstairs before finally leaving the apartment, walking toward the small club where Nina’s competition was taking place. It wasn't far, north and west of my apartment, so I arrived early. I had a hit from my dugout outside then smoked a cigarette, standing near a group of male and female twenty-somethings who were also puffing away.

I went inside and saw a smallish club with a DJ table against the back wall as well as large speakers. Along the right side near the entrance was a long bar. There were only a few folks sitting or standing next to it with a bunch of lounge-like couches and chairs next to small tables in the sunken area of the bar toward the back as well ample space to dance. They were mostly filled with young men and women--mostly women. In a corner with a couch and chairs on the left-hand side of the bar, just after the step-down at the end of the bar, were a group of seemingly college-aged women, probably between eighteen and twenty-four. They were loudly chattering away in Dutch. I understood none of what they were saying but thought, “Damn, that’s a lot of hot women in a ten-foot-square area.” I saw Nina sitting among them. I tried to get her attention, but she was caught up in conversation with two other women who were almost as gorgeous as she was. Almost.

I turned to the bar and ordered a beer on tap. As I did I felt a poke. Daniel was standing at the end of the bar right next to me. I said, “Hey, man, I didn’t even see you.” He nodded at the women in the corner and said, “Yeah, you were preoccupied.” I shrugged sheepishly. He asked me if I wanted a smoke as the bartender brought me my beer. I gave the woman my card to run a tab, placed a coaster over my beer, and joined Daniel outside for a smoke even though I had just had one. He lit up in his “I’m-cooler-than-anyone-you-know” manner. It was like watching James Dean light a cigarette. I puffed and puffed and puffed and blew a gigantic smoke ring into the air. Daniel took a puff and blew a jet of smoke through its center which caused the ring to wiggle then break. I said, “Hey, man!” He barely cracked a smile. He was quietly competitive.

We went back inside. Daniel grabbed his beer at end of the bar. I picked up mine and stood next to him. Nina came over and put one hand on Daniel’s shoulder while clasping my elbow with the other. She said, “You’re going to cheer loudly when I get up there, right?” We nodded yes. She said, “I’m nervous.” She looked hyped up, but anxious. I pointed to the group of women in the corner, presumably her friends. She looked over and said, “Oh, yeah.” She motioned for us to follow her over. Daniel looked exasperated, not wanting to be on parade. Nina introduced us in Dutch. Some of them knew Daniel and reacted warmly to him. In English, Nina mentioned that I was American. Only half the young ones were looking up. Those who were nodded disinterestedly.

Nina turned and said, “I have to go backstage and get ready,” leaving Daniel and I in the lurch to converse with her friends who were resuming their conversations. I wondered how many were lesbians, bisexual, or transgender. Probably all of them. Fine by me, but from the looks of the women I was just an older guy that belonged in the background. They were a clique, a band of women warriors who hunted and gathered together, and I was from an unknown and unwanted tribe.

My inability to speak Dutch was a serious detriment. I wondered how many were turned off that I was American. Most of the Dutch were accepting, but there were definitely currents of resentment over America’s megalomania and fiercely confrontational and militaristic aggressiveness toward the world. I spoke briefly with one woman who spoke a little English, but the conversation was awkward at best. She looked around as if for help, anything to save her from having to converse with an ancient American who couldn’t speak Dutch. She was stretched to the limit in terms of being respectful and looked like she might shriek at any moment. Her eyes said, “Why are you here? Why are you bothering us, interrupting our fun, you pathetic white American male with your boring heterosexuality and your monolingual stupidity.

One of her friends grabbed her and they went outside, presumably to smoke, but essentially, I think, just to escape from me. I was relieved, too. It had been torture standing there on display in front of young women of indeterminate sexual orientation who seemed to view me as a symbol of whatever it was that they despised most in the world. There was no way to dispel their misperceptions—if that was even what they were thinking—because I didn’t have the language to communicate. My heart wasn’t in it, either. I just wanted to hang with Daniel, drink some beer, and listen to Nina’s music. I fought off the urge to think of the women as snotty little bitches, but I couldn’t help fast-forwarding into the distant future when they were older and peering in from the outside at a new flock of young women who might look at them with disdain. Sad, insecure, and resentful wishing.

I went back to the bar, shook off the sentiments, and took a drink. I was surprised to see Daniel already there. Somehow he had slipped away without my noticing. He was talking with a good-sized guy wearing a plain white T-shirt with wavy black hair and a wide smile on his face. Daniel introduced me to him. His name was Chris and Daniel mentioned he was Nina’s roommate. I remembered Nina telling me she didn’t like this fellow because he was "such a guy." That was definitely true. He had a thick Australian accent and he mentioned he was half Aussie and half Belgian, his mother having been born in Brussels before being swept Down Under by Chris’s old man.

Chris overflowed with machismo. His presence was larger than life, full of grandiosity but in that fun-loving way most Aussie’s possessed. He was training to compete in mixed martial arts competitions and he talked about his push-your-body-to-the-limit workouts. He also mentioned his Australian misadventures, how his old man was a hound with the ladies, and how he had gotten his dad’s genes than that regard. He “wanted to party and then party some more.” He was about as extroverted as a person could be without his muscles and bones breaking through his skin to expand even further, a tornado of talk and action. He gestured wildly at times and his voice boomed.

I could understand why this guy irked Nina. I thought he was great, though. So fucking fun. I asked him about living with Nina and he said, “Ah, mate, she’s the greatest. We watched a Western the otha’ day and I says to her, ‘That cowgirl is fucking hot.’ She's sitting like a guy, legs wide open on the couch, and after she takes a swig of beer she says, ‘Yeah, I want to fuck her brains out.’ All I could say was, ‘No shit, right?’ She looked my way and said ‘Fuck yeah.’ Then she pounded the rest of her beer. It’s like hanging out with a guy, she just says whatever the fuck is on her mind. She doesn't give a shit. She’s the coolest, mate. She's got bigger balls than most of the guys I know.”

Chris also had a more refined side. He spoke Belgian, English, French, and was taking classes to learn Dutch. He suggested I join his class, they'd had only two and he said it was “only intermediate Dutch” which nevertheless seemed a degree beyond my learning curve. He said they met after classes at the Huyschkaemer. I told him I lived just around the corner on Kerkstraat. “Aye, then you have to come over, mate. Tuesday nights at eight. A good group, an American in the bunch, too. Some fine pussy, too, but I gotta focus on the class for work. You could hook up, though.” I changed the subject and asked him where he worked. He mentioned a design company located in a building on the Dam. He said his office overlooked the Square. “It’s a good company, great contacts, but it’s a bit stodgy. It’s the older generation and they don’t understand how the culture is changing, you know? They can’t fathom how fast everything changes now, how global culture is. It’s not a big company, but big enough that it’s hard to pass ideas up the chain. I’m working up a business model to create a startup with a mate of mine. I got a good contact at Columbia Sportswear, too. Just need to hammer down the particulars so we can get started. Starting with a client like that, create momentum, and branch out. I got all the ideas, mate, plenty of fucking ideas.” I had no doubt he did.

Daniel, meanwhile, was chilling out, laughing now and then. When Chris headed to the WC, Daniel mentioned that Chris had stopped by Bloem a few times with Nina. He got along well with Chris, he liked him. It was hard not to like him, although boisterousness might be an acquired taste for some. When Chris came back, the three of us started talking about art and Chris mentioned he painted. Splatter paintings. He said, “I never use black.” He asked me if I did. I said I sketched but had been thinking of transitioning to painting. I realized I kept forgetting about it. I needed to get to an art supplies store and get going. I wanted to start while shrooming and my time in Amsterdam was getting shorter.

Chris mentioned he also played on a rugby team locally. I mentioned I had played rugby in college. “What position?” I said, “seven, eight, nine mostly.” He said, “Ah, you’re one of those, a quick fucker, you see the field. You should come out, mate, give it a whirl.” I shook my head, “I don’t know. I’ve had too many injuries over the years and I’m guessing your group is mid-to-late twenties, maybe early thirties. I think I'd get fucked up pretty quick.” He nodded and mentioned he was twenty-seven. Young and active. A mover and shaker, athlete and aggressive entrepreneur, adventurer and playboy. The city was loaded with guys like Chris: international, young, professional, adventurous, partying insanely, a hat in every ring, willing to do anything and everything, motoring twenty-four hours a day, bursting with energy, with life. If he ever returned to Australia he would likely fuck his way through Europe, fight through Afghanistan, climb Mount Everest, snowboard down the other side, walk through India as a holy man, surf into the Indian Ocean, lasso a dolphin, ride it to Perth, and then do a walkabout across the country to New South Wales.

As we were drinking beers and bullshitting, Chris mentioned the bevy of women in the corner. I said “Good luck.” He scoffed and walked over to them. He started chatting up one of them and soon they were laughing. The man had an energy about him and crackling charisma. It didn’t hurt that he was ten years younger than me, much closer to the age range of the women in the corner. When he returned and we went outside for a smoke, he said he knew a few of them through Nina, that they’d come over to their house quite a bit. He also mentioned that they were all lesbians or bisexual. I figured as much, but I asked, “Are there any women in this city who are exclusively straight?” Daniel shook his head. “I think those days are over. In another generation every guy will be bisexual or gay.” Maybe in Europe. Chris said it would never fly in Australia. I added, “Not in English-speaking countries, not in a generation, that's for sure.” Europe, though, maybe.

When we went back inside and ordered more beers, the MC announced the beginning of the competition. He introduced the three DJs and said they would each play for about twenty minutes. The cheers of the crowd would determine the winner. This was an amateur competition, a way for new and up-and-coming DJs to get some experience and exposure—and a way for the club to draw in a crowd to make more money. The club had filled up nearly to capacity and there was a mix of club gear, casual dress, all-in-black stylishness, and freakishly strange. The crowd was mostly under thirty, most of whom seemed connected in some way to each of the DJs.

The MC announced the lineup. Nina would be going last. The first DJ was so-so, nothing special and Daniel, Chris, and I wound up talking halfway through his set. The second DJ put together an excellent mix; he was clearly talented, incredibly good. I was mesmerized at one point. People got up to groove once he got going, really getting into it. Nina ran a minimalist set, heavy bass, thumping beats, hypnotic loops. The crowd kept dancing throughout her mix, even more enthusiastically than through the second set. Overall, though, I thought the second guy had the best mix, though not by much over Nina. The crowd probably got more into Nina's mix because the second guy warmed them up and at least half the crowd was there to support Nina. Daniel, Chris, and I roared for Nina when the sound votes were cast. She won in a landslide. Still, the second guy got great applause. He deserved it and I thought he would do well if he could get more exposure and develop a following. Nina’s style was solid and more polished than the other three, but I thought the second guy had greater upside. Then again, she was still young and developing as a DJ. Plus, she was undeniably sexy. The music, though, was the bottom line.

Daniel, Chris, and I went out for a smoke afterward. Nina came out shortly thereafter. She was exhilarated. We hugged and congratulated her. Nina introduced me to her little sister, sparkplug of cuteness. I was stunned when she said she was only fifteen. She had the same thick, lush, long, and curly hair as Nina, a body that defied her age, the cutest button nose, and lively eyes. She didn’t have the sex appeal that Nina had, but, fuck, she was only fifteen. Jesus fucking fuck. I talked with her for a good ten minutes. She seemed much more mature than her years which seemed typical of young Dutch men and women. Meanwhile, Daniel and Chris were talking with Nina and her friends who had come outside to smoke. They were speaking Dutch so I was glad Nina's younger sister was there. She was also on the outside a bit since she was so much younger than the rest of Nina's friends.

When things settled down, Nina and her friends said goodbye and started walking away. They were headed for a party to celebrate and Nina’s sister left with them. Daniel, Chris, and I went back inside, finished out beers, and paid our tabs. As we walked back out, Chris said he had to get going, a big meeting the next day at his work. Daniel was headed over to see Sophia so we said our goodbyes and I started walking home.

I felt like going out with friends deep into the night, but everyone was busy doing something else. Nina’s crew was too young and they would be speaking Dutch all night anyway. I wished I had purchased shrooms. It was almost midnight, though, and all the smart shops were closed. I went back to my apartment and once I settled down I loaded a bud of Kush into my pipe and took a few puffs. I opened the window, but decided against a cigarette. The fresh air felt good even though the temperature had dropped. I turned on some music, light jazz. I’d had my fill of electronica, trance, and house. I lied down on the couch and dozed awhile. I woke up around 3:00 AM, closed the window, and went to bed.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Chiricahua National Park


I live here. This is my backyard. That strange rock wall is the first thing I see every morning. It reminds me that I am only as weird as my surroundings. I’m fucking weird, man. Really fucking warped. It’s not a problem, though, because I’m the only one living here. I have no neighbors. None that are human, anyway. Hawks, yes. Lizards and snakes, yes. Burros, yes. Mountain lions, yes. Boulders, of course. Odd-looking trees, naturally. Sand and dirt, indeed. The sky, always. But no humans. I’m grateful for that. I can’t stand my own species. I hate civilization. Everyone fucks up everything. But not this place, not my home. Here I’m safe from your bullshit … for now.



This is my home. I live in a cave with many openings. I have only once been attacked by a puma. I have a rock stove. I light it with my hunting knife using flint and kindling. I’ve got a pot, a frying pan, a spatula, a fork, a spoon, and a canteen. It’s all I need for cooking, really. My bed is made of twigs and branches for support and dead leaves for padding. I have to replace the padding quite often. The branches and twigs sporadically. The cave protects me from rain and wind. I have cougar skins, an old parka, long underwear, a wool hat, and a sleeping bag to handle the cold. The heat? I walk around naked except for a bark-rope belt with snake-skin flaps dangling over my ass and my junk. I have a pair of winter hiking boots and a pair of waterproof moccasins for walking and running (usually after prey). I’ve learned to make tinctures for wounds and I eat or apply herbs for illnesses. I’m mostly self-sufficient, but sometimes I steal from human visitors stupid enough to invade my space. This is the wild; your property rights mean shit to me. I’ll slit your throat just as soon as shake your hand. And I’ll fucking eat you if I’m hungry.



These are my hunting grounds. And my playground. Depends on my needs. Nature has provided me with an outdoor gym. I climb, jump, run. I walk slowly and silently stalking prey. I made a slingshot with sticks and the intestines of a burro. I shoot rocks into the air to kill birds or on the ground at lizards, snakes, rabbits, and more. I also have a stock of spears I’ve sharpened from long branches. I stab with them if I’m close enough to an animal and I throw them if there is some distance. I have a bow and arrows, very nice, synthetic, factory-made. I took it from a hunter who had the misfortune of crossing my hunting grounds. I stalked him as he searched for deer. At dusk, I struck, slicing the carotid artery in his neck. I drank his blood and howled as I spread it over my body while a bright white moon looked down on me.



This is the Spirit Tree. For many years, white people have passed by it without acknowledging its power and the beauty of this place. I have killed all of them. I beat animal-skin drums with femurs, honoring the Spirit Tree with leg bones from the disrespectful. I have made crowns, necklaces, bracelets, and anklets from phalanges and rib bones. I keep the skulls in my cave and look at the trapped souls in the empty eye sockets, watching their torment and listening to their futile cries for mercy. They made their choices while human. Now they suffer without cease.



I have placed the bones of dead humans throughout the boulder columns. With some I have made sculptures and installations. Sometimes I forget that I have made one of them then a year later I stumble on it and laugh at my forgetfulness. I invite the crows to perch on them. The crows are good. They show me where dead carcasses are hidden. I share with them, but I eat the best parts. There is one bone statue I have made that provides sexual satisfaction. It is made entirely of pelvises. I sit in proximity to it and experience ecstatic reverie.



A dry wash. The wash is filled with rushing water when there are heavy rains. I collect the water in pots I have created from naturally bowled stones. When the season is dry, I drink the milk of cacti as well as the leaves of certain bushes and trees. I am currently digging a well, but the work is slow and treacherous. The wash, though, is also a place of sanctuary for me. It is there that I commune most fully with who I am. The history of water has left its life there and I drink from the past to sustain my soul. I never urinate in this area. It is sacred ground. Nor do I shit there. How do I wipe my ass, you ask? Why would I wipe my ass?

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Jesture


He was uncouth. Not according to the definition of the word. No, but I described him that way because I wanted to apply that word to someone and he was the only person in the room. The den was dark, filled with dusty furniture, antiques, and a fireplace that had never been used. The man was silent, still, sitting on a high-backed chair. I felt contempt. He was uncouth without any connection to any possible meaning that word conveyed. No matter how much he veered from the definition, though, the word fit. I threw a banana peel at his head. He didn't move and his eyes remained closed. They had been sewn shut. He was dead.

Few things matter to me more than huckleberry milkshakes.

I gave up smoking cigars by chewing on flat-head screwdrivers. Many teeth were broken that way. I saw a dentist daily. She never admonished me for biting screwdrivers, though. She was making good money off of me and assured me that I wouldn't get cancer this way.

Once in a great while there comes a man who uses baseball cards to establish supremacy over Senegalese women before stealing their children for the sake of appeasing a God that only seven persons believe exists above the clouds but below the stratosphere in an attempt to stay close enough to Earth's action without becoming too involved except to convert carbon dioxide into flesh pebbles which He shoots from a straw at people living on Papua New Guinea as a means to let them know that it was not meant for human habitation even though there has never been anything written stating such a thing which is the only way most people know about much of anything ever since sensory perception was discredited as a subjective biased by scientists and post-structuralist zealots who rarely consider the pain of a stubbed toe to be worthy of consideration given that so little research has been devoted to the study of ideas that haven't yet been thought by women who wear high heels while walking through snow drifts in rural Idaho in the middle of December on their way to build snow forts while children throw pine cones at them out of a sense of dread that their fathers may leave their mothers to join carnivals roaming throughout North America to spread crystal meth to the poor in exchange for soured milk to be poured on earthworms on the Spring Solstice to glorify the Seven Heads of the Mind Totem that was destroyed in South America in 748 A.D. to appease the Python Man who swallowed a dog and shit the Andes into existence shortly after a sparrow flew into the eye of a water buffalo in Africa to the delight of several monkeys who had spontaneously gathered to fling feces at fire ants that had grown several inches in length the previous day after being exposed to the vibrations of an electronic pygmy mask that had been discarded by marauding wayfarers who had traveled millions of years forward in time only to discover how boring the Earth had become compared to the wonderland of sex magic and giant beanstalks made of nutrient-rich sugar and cardboard molasses collected from apricot trees and granite cliffs which were abundant everywhere strong winds blew.

The Japanese government is about to eradicate weekends from calendars to increase productivity while the Brits have voted to add Queueday between Thursday and Friday to give the citizenry more opportunities to complain about standing in long lines.

I hardly think it's worth mentioning.

He looked deep into the well. It was empty. Where had she gone?

John Sayles: "As a Hollywood screenwriter, very often what I'm directed to do is, well, 'go in that direction, but avoid that neighborhood.' So you have to make a big turn around some, you know, some thing that exists. If you ever saw The Patriot with Mel Gibson, if you know anything about American history, you can figure it went probably went through 20, 25 drafts. And I bet, early on, it had slaves. By the time the movie comes out, though, there's like these volunteer black people working on his plantation and, you know, it all seems pretty happy and everything like that. [Gibson's character] was originally based on Francis Marion, the Swamp Fox. Well, the history got in the way and they had to avoid that. Things the audience might not like or that weren't black-and-white enough tended to get taken out of the movie until what you had was a beautifully photographed and very, very well-made lying piece of shit, if you care at all about American history. So, as far as being political, I just feel like, well jeez, if it's there I'm not going to ignore it. Just to leave it out makes the movie political. Every movie is political."

Are you fucking kidding me?!

Free him from animal lust, make his eyes bleed, shed his skin, make him cum all over her tits, answer the phone, dig your own grave, button down the hatches, shove your dick in his mouth, eat my pussy, make me some bacon, dump the oil into the lake, fly away like a bird, shoot the cheetah, adore me, juggle hot coals, dip your hand in a vat of lard, hide from the monster, go home after you frighten the children, bake a cake, jingle your keys, dress up like Santa, I don't like you, find someone else to collate and staple, flip those burgers, eat the chicken, feed the rabbits, pick up an acorn, drive off the cliff, unbutton your pants, make a deal with the devil, believe in Satan, kill your daughter, make love to someone you don't know, flag down the police car, fry some eggs, quack like a duck, hustle the pimp, pour a glass of water, read a long novel, turn on the television, post a video on Facebook, grab a wad of cash, mail a severed finger to your friend, operate heavy machinery, build a sand castle, maim the bitch, freak out, wipe your ass, assault a teenager, kiss the clown, beat your meat, lose your inhibitions, streak across the park, conduct a straw poll, vote for yourself, love someone who doesn't deserve it, undermine yourself, play with fire, zip your fly, pick your nose, tear off her shirt, kick him in the balls, nap in the afternoon, fist fuck a cow, plead for your life, yell at your mother, intercept the pass, call 911, hold onto the rope, go for it, do the right thing, smack him on the ass, rub her feet, jam the radio signal, verify his credit card number, expose yourself, drag a sack across the desert, climb a mountain, roll down a hill, swim across the canal, fall into a ditch, drown in the bathtub, pull yourself together, stay up all night, join a biker gang, try an eagle hunt, fill up the tank, bitch for no reason, realize your purpose, walk a mile in your own damn shoes, fuck those posers, strike a pose, blame everyone else for your problems, interrogate your children, destroy your relationships, ruin your chance for redemption, assume she wants you, victimize the abuser, hit a home run, find a shotgun, just get it done.

Nothing says "I have run out of ideas" more than a list of random fruits and vegetables:

Apples
Lettuce
Spinach
Bananas
Blackberries
Watermelon
Cantaloupes
Kale
Broccoli
Grapes
Pineapples
Squash
Asparagus
Strawberries
Pumpkins
Cucumbers
Carrots
Yams
Zucchini
Oranges

Friday, April 10, 2015

Amsterdam Seventy-Eight: The Wipeout


Michael checked his email in the morning. Sterre had not sent a message and he forlornly made breakfast. He worked on an index into the early hours of the afternoon before eating a sandwich and leaving his apartment. He cycled to the Greenhouse because his dugout was all but empty and he was out of cannabis. Once there, he stood in a short line waiting to be served. He felt impatient as two Moroccan youths wasted time combating with the equally young but ethnically indeterminate ganja jockey behind the counter. After a long and boring wait, he bought three grams of Bubba Kush, a gram of Amnesia Haze, and a gram of Bubble Mania hash. Michael watched as the GJ weighted the weed. The crystals were plentiful on the BK and had a loud scent. The Amnesia didn't look or smell quite as pleasing, but it was a strain Michael hadn't smoked. The Bubble Mania was 65 Euros per gram, but he recalled such a sweet high from smoking it in the past that the cost was not a consideration for him. It melted smoothly as well.

Michael didn’t try to rationalize the purchase; he simply made the decision based on what he wanted. The choice was not made impulsively, but from self-assurance, a quality he had been both consciously and inadvertently developing for months. Long gone was his sense of uncertainty in relation to whether or not he deserved to feel pleasure; his sense of what he wanted had become second nature and he no longer hesitated to act on his intuitions. He did not succumb to doubt and had become able to trust others to a greater degree than he ever had before precisely because he trusted himself. As he changed he was aware of who he was becoming, building a strong relationship between self and self-understanding. This greater self-knowledge was not something he described to himself through language. He simply knew these things without having to think about them, so in tune was his grasp of his senses, emotions, and values as they were and as they changed.

Once the purchase had been made, Michael took a seat near the back of the coffeeshop and broke up the Amnesia Haze to refill his dugout. Having done so, he broke off a small amount from the stick of hash and loaded it in the bat. Michael preferred smoking hash from his bat rather than from a specialized pipe. Keeping it lit was easy and drawing satisfying inhalations was pleasing. The social atmosphere of the Greenhouse was laid back. On the corner couches on the far southeast wall sat three young black men with dreadlocks passing a blunt between them.

Michael was sitting at a table in a chair opposite, hazily watching them with detached interest. He wondered about the word “dreadlocks.” Why use that word to describe that hair style? Locks of dread? Had a person felt a sense of dread in the presence of such locks? Michael amused himself with such thoughts, even playing with the idea that men and women chose the hair style in order to have greater access to feelings of dread, as if that particular hair style had a special magic that allowed those who adopted it to feel the totality of dread, a unique quality of existence that surpassed in its entirety all other ways of being. “Perhaps that’s why they are so relaxed all the time; nothing in the world is more dreadful than their hair and therefore they fear nothing but their hair. Once they’ve overcome the fear of their hair they have nothing left to fear.”

As Michael took another hit from his bat, he thought it seemed entirely silly that people concerned themselves about hair styles. While he knew little formally about Buddhist monks, he thought they were onto something with their shaved and buzzed scalps. “Why not just take clippers and shear it all off?” Michael had done just that a month earlier. His hair was now growing out somewhat, but it was still short enough that it was impossible to become messed up. Not having to concern himself with how his hair looked before leaving his apartment for any reason satisfied something within him.

Because he was developing a greater degree of self-love almost daily, he cared less and less about what others thought of him. Not always and not completely, but significantly less than in the past, enough that he noticed the difference and realized how foolish he had been for wasting time concerning himself with what others thought about him. They didn’t live in his body, he thought, so why would he give others so much power over how he managed it? Increasingly, he did not, though the process was slower than he desired. It was sometimes lost on him how radically he had changed in a matter of months. He adapted so seamlessly to constant change through his practice of shrooming that he sometimes felt frustrated for struggling with any particular issue. He was, however, becoming less judgmental of himself and his shortcomings, although when he became aware of particular limitations he focused like a laser to find a way to overcome it, eliminate it, or turn it into a strength.

Michael did not typically think of things in these ways. He was busy living his life and when he made discoveries, he either accepted and developed them or he rejected them. He didn’t try to place his life in context on a regular basis. There was no point. To whom would he report progress or regression? He had decided there was no God or Great Other that existed beyond him to whom he had to give account and no one in the world seemed to care one way or the other whether he did this or that. The loss of God and the absence of a moral community that judged social behavior did not fill him with anguish or leave him feeling alienated. If anything, he felt liberated. His task now was merely unraveling and dismantling harmful concepts and rules within the worldview that had developed over his lifetime frameworks for understanding himself and the world. That was why he chose shrooms as the engine for what he described as his vision quest.

After a time, Michael felt ready to leave the Greenhouse. He was pleasantly high and he had been thinking of nothing at all, just enjoying the sensations that accompanied the hash. He abandoned the dreadlocked men who had been speaking a foreign tongue, giving them a gentle nod as he left. They nodded in return before resuming their quiet conversation. The temperature outside was moderate, almost no wind, and the sky was gray. Michael unlocked his bike and crossed the Blauwbrug while appreciating the beautiful view of the curving river to the north.

Some of the buds on the trees were starting to sprout. The long white tour boats were out as well. Michael had forgotten about them. They had been dormant in the winter months, but with the warmer temperatures they were coming out of their hibernation. Michael didn’t mind the huge tour boats during the day, but he cursed their spotlights at night because of their insulting, violent light. Tourist’s desires to see the sights within the Grachtengordel and the Amstel at night were understandable, but Michael thought the city government had made a grievous mistake allowing those visual atrocities to shine such ghastly lights. He couldn’t imagine how awful it would be to live in an apartment, condo, or mansion along the Keizersgracht or Herengracht in the spring, summer, or fall, always having to cope with blinding spot lights flooding living rooms and bedrooms every ten or fifteen minutes for hours night after night. There were smaller tour boats that weren’t so garish and did not blind pedestrians, cyclists, and residents. Michael thought they were to be commended for preserving the ambiance of the canals at night.

After crossing the Blauwbrug, Michael rode along Amstelstraat to the west. Tram tracks occupied the right-hand side of the road while the cyclists rode along or between them. Michael was riding in the middle of the tracks and as he neared Rembrandtplein the tram tracks split and curved to his left to form another line. He leaned back and pulled up on the handlebars in an attempt to pop his front wheel over the curve of the tracks, but he didn’t time his jump properly and the front wheel of his bicycle caught in the curve of the tracks. He went flying over the handlebars, bracing his fall with his hands and forearms, his nose coming as close as a few centimeters from the pavement.

It happened so fast he had no time to think. Michael was splayed out on the ground for a few moments wondering where he was and what had happened. His forearms suddenly hurt like hell and his palms were scratched up. A shopkeeper whose face was filled with worry ran over to him and helped him up. As the ethnic gentleman softly asked questions in Dutch, Michael took inventory of his body. His disorientation was lessening, although the shock had not worn off. There were no broken bones or torn ligaments that he could detect. He noticed several pedestrians of different ages, both men and women, with concerned looks on their faces milling around him.

Michael managed a nervous smile and said he was fine. He thanked the older shopkeeper who had helped him, a shorter but stocky man with kind eyes who spoke English with an eastern European accent. Michael could feel his face turning red. The worst injury appeared to be to his pride, but he managed to laugh at himself even though he was embarrassed. With everyone around him responding with care and concern he felt humbled. Being treated well by others was not something Michael took for granted. For much of his life his wellbeing was of little concern to others and he had encountered many who enjoyed witnessing or causing the suffering of others. Had such a tumble occurred while he was living in Arizona, he felt sure that he would have been ridiculed or ignored.

Michael checked his bike to see if it was damaged. The handlebars were crooked, but he found he could straighten and tighten them with relative ease. The wheel wasn’t bent at all. With his body, mind, and bike in check, Michael mounted and rode off while thanking those who were still lingering. He cut down a narrow bike and pedestrian path between buildings until he came to the Amstel. He decided to turn right to head back toward his apartment even though he had intended to roam through the Oude Zijde. He needed to wash the dirt and grit from the scrapes on his hands. Even though his forearms were scratched and bruised, his Boss jacket sustained no damage. He was impressed, yet again, with its quality and durability.

After arriving back at his apartment and washing his wounds, Michael checked his email. A friend had written a response to an email he had sent over a week ago. He hadn’t remembered sending it, but he re-read his message and discovered that he had written about abstract thinking, how concepts clouded the mind, blocked attentiveness to sensation, and created the conditions for absurd beliefs and values. Without realizing it, Michael was becoming a phenomenologist, although he probably would have preferred to describe his perspectives as experientialist. Shrooming had led to a deeper connection with a multitude of ways of thinking and being, few of which Michael had studied in depth. In addition to phenomenology, he was discovering mysticism, existentialism, Zen Buddhism, and possibly Taoism. Again, he was doing so without attaching these labels to his thinking or experiences. Categorizing what was occurring seemed like a sure way to lose what he was learning. Michael thought that perhaps he would write about his experiences when his learning decelerated. It was a fleeting thought that came and went; he brushed it away whenever it arose because he didn’t want to be distracted from the living process he was developing. While he wrote notes occasionally, he had no interest in developing his writing except perhaps for the good of others. If no one found what he had learned useful or interesting then so be it. This was his journey and it was becoming obvious that each person wasn’t going to be able to look outside themselves for answers about how to live. Experience was the best teacher. External sources could be useful as supplements, though.

Michael remembered that movement had been his first critical discovery. Abandonment to movement took him out of his mind and returned him to his body. Escaping thought allowed new ways of thinking. Whenever movement ceased there were moments of reorientation and in those moments new ways of seeing the world occurred. The end of thought begat the possibility of the beginning of thought, a brief moment of infancy with the opportunity to develop new ways of perceiving self and the world.

These thoughts were shelved when Michael turned his attention to indexing. After an hour of work, he received an SMS. Daniel wanted to know if Michael would like to meet him for dinner at seven at Café van Kerkwijk on Nes. Michael responded that he would, but wondered if there was a special occasion. Daniel responded that there was no occasion. His girlfriend Sophia was the chef at van Kerkwijk and she had invited Daniel and Michael to dinner. Michael replied that he would meet him there.

Thinking of Nes reminded Michael of his mishap with Sterre. She hadn’t sent an email even though she said she would after returning from Berlin. Thinking of Sophia, on the other hand, reminded Michael of Piper and he wondered if she would be at van Kerkwijk. Michael knew nothing about the café so he looked it up online. The reviews indicated that the restaurant was well-regarded. It was late afternoon so Michael readied himself, dressing as well as his wardrobe allowed. He felt he had time to spare so he loaded a bowl with a bud of the Bubba Kush he had purchased earlier. After a couple tokes, Michael left.

As he cycled down Kerkstraat and turned onto Utrechtsestraat, Michael’s mind felt spacious. It was the Kush, which was also loosening up his body and easing the sting he still felt on his scraped palms. The street was busy with pedestrians, cars, cyclists, and trams so Michael skirted Rembrandtplein to the Amstel through the same narrow pathway he had taken hours earlier. The view across the river was beautiful from this stretch, with grand old buildings across the way. It was still light out, but because of the darker cloudy sky the lights of the buildings and street were brighter than they would have been. The Amstel was hopping and Michael felt a rush from breathing the open air, cruising along with other cyclists, being a part of the life parade in such a spectacular city. He nearly turned on to Halvemaansbrug, but remembered at the last second that he needed to merge with Rokin. His pace slowed as he focused more intently on the direction he was heading. His brief rush eased to a softer appreciation.

Shops, bars, eateries, and grocery marts lined this section of the Amstel, one after the other. Some were kitschy, a few dapper, all of them interesting to view while cycling. It was somewhat difficult, though, since there was two-way traffic on this street and the flow of cars was heavy. As Michael came upon the insanity of the Muntplein intersection he barely avoided a second bicycle accident as a woman had stopped riding abruptly just before the opening to the bicycle path. He braked as best he could and barely cut around the woman to the bike path away from street traffic. He was too surprised to yell and after he was safely past he breathed a sigh of relief. 

Michael zoomed onward, looking across the narrowed Amstel at the stately and ornate Hotel De L’Europe. He crossed the Doelensluis and turned left onto Oude Turfmarkt. The street followed the north side of the curving Amstel while Rokin ran the length on the other side of the river. The benefit of riding on Turfmarkt was that traffic was light, almost nonexistent, whereas Rokin was a wild mess of every type of transportation the city had to offer. Because the ride was so easy, Michael was able to enjoy his high even more while watching the happenings across the river in relative peace. He thought it was interesting to see houseboats only on his side of the river and wondered if the busy traffic on Rokin was the reason.

As Michael’s mind wandered his pace slowed. He thought of the near-miss and laughed, thinking how silly it was that he should be a better cyclist while being high. He never noticed a dip in his ability to concentrate, but perhaps that was because he focused his attention so consciously every day. It had become a habit, a healthy habit, and to an extent cannabis helped relax the body enough to allow the mind to become sharper. Michael also thought that his moderate intake contributed as he rarely smoked to get stoned. He did not like feeling baked; he preferred a light, relaxing, and alert high. It was possible he was wired differently than others because he typically felt more energy from smoking cannabis rather than lethargy and dull-mindedness.

Michael also never got the munchies unless he smoked too much. The haze varieties caused more grogginess than the Kush, but Michael compensated by limiting his intake of the haze even more than the Kush. Spreading the puffs throughout the day also allowed the highs to remain steady and thus a certain tolerance had developed which allowed muscles to remain loose even through strenuous exercise. He had a muscular build and he’d had muscle tension and spasms daily throughout his adult life. The cannabis eased that tension and allowed him the energy to stretch. He was sharper while mildly high because the relaxed muscles eliminated physiologically-generated anxiety. He had also read studies indicating that cannabis dilated the bronchioles in the lungs allowing more oxygen into the blood which, in turn, meant more oxygen flow to the brain. It was unconscionable to him that cannabis should be made illegal anywhere in the world when its benefits were so well researched and well known.

Michael turned right onto Langebrugsteeg, a wonderfully narrow street traversed mostly by pedestrians and cyclists, although a scooter shot by him as he approached Kadinsky. The coffeeshop had a good reputation with travelers. The shop sold quality weed and usually had a good vibe. What struck Michael, though, was that there was a delightfully colorful shop for sweets and a bakery with inviting smells just across the street. A wise placement of shops given how many tourists and travelers liked to get stoned rather than high.

At the end of the short block Michael slowly turned to the left onto Nes, trying to weave around a large group of walkers who were hogging the entire street. The street was narrow which provided its back-alley charm, but it could be a bit of a challenge to bike when it got clogged. Once past the large group, he enjoyed cycling down the lane while passing by pedestrians and cyclists heading each way. This was the street where he had wildly rode a wheelie just a couple weeks earlier. To Michael, it seemed like a lifetime ago.

Because he wasn’t sure how far down the road the café was, Michael rode slowly, looking closely at each sign. As he passed the Tobacco Theater he wondered what types of shows were held there. Celebrations of tobacco plantations from centuries ago? Tributes to Philip Morris? Next he passed the Comedy Theater then Frascati. He realized the south end of Nes was a theater district. After Frascati he passed a few restaurants and cafes then the Hotel V. Still no Café van Kerkwijk. The narrowness of the street, though, made the walls of the buildings rising on either side of the road seem cozy and inviting. If he hadn’t agreed to meet Daniel at seven he probably would have gotten off his bike and walked so he could appreciate Nes as much as he would a fine wine: slowly and delicately with attentiveness to subtleties.

Michael passed by a large square, mostly empty, but bordered by a restaurant and the Hotel V—indeed, a very long building. There were several bicycle racks, not all of them filled. If this square was close to the café he planned to double back. Nes had few options for parking given how narrow the road and sidewalks were. Less than a block later, just past tiny cycling/pedestrian path that ran to the east, was the café. Daniel was out front smoking a cigarette; he turned to walk down the path, motioning for Michael to follow.

Michael slowed to a stop just around the corner and Daniel suggested locking the bikes together. “Hold on, I need a cigarette first.” Daniel said nothing and continued puffing. Michael dismounted and lit up a cigarette, asking Daniel if he’d been waiting long. “Nah, maybe five minutes.” Michael said, “Cool. Is Sophia here yet?” Daniel eyed Michael closely. “Are you being serious? I told you she’s the chef.

Michael had been under the impression that Sophia had invited them to eat with her … and possibly Piper. From Michael’s perspective, hopefully Piper. “I guess I misinterpreted what you meant.” Daniel remained stoic. Michael was used to Daniel’s cool demeanoer even though it wasn’t a constant. He could be lively and jocular as well and his easygoing manner suggested that his cool exterior wasn’t necessarily stoic at all. His face lit up even when he wasn't smiling. Nevertheless, Daniel remained a delightful mystery to Michael, a mystery Michael hoped would always remain no matter how much more he learned about Daniel.

When Michael was finished with his cigarette, he wrapped his chain through the front tires and the frame of both bikes then locked it. Daniel, meanwhile, used his lock on the back tires and frame. It was probably unnecessary to lock both the front and back, but since the bikes weren’t locked to an unmovable object it wasn’t an absurd caution. As they walked around the corner and into the café, they had to struggle to get past a number of people waiting for tables. There were no reservations at van Kerkwijk so Daniel suggested that they wait at the bar.

The café was cozy and intimate. It was also crowded. Michael looked around and saw that every table was filled. The tables were set very close together and each one had white linen clothes draped over them. The seating arrangement reminded Michael of cafés in France. The patrons were dressed well. The bar was full as well, but they found a space to stand. Sophia came out from the kitchen and quickly walked by the end of the bar. She looked intensely focused. She walked to a table, squatted next to it, and began talking with the man and woman dining. She was smiling as she spoke. Michael couldn’t make out what she was saying as there were people all around him at the bar. For Michael, it was strange seeing Sophia in a chef’s hat dressed all in white while running the show after clubbing with her less than a week ago.

Daniel, unsurprisingly, asked Michael about his night out with Sophia and Piper. “I had a good time. Plenty of dancing. Sophia is fun as hell. Piper is … I still don’t know how to describe her. We went back to her place afterward.” Daniel said that Sophia never mentioned going back to Piper’s. Michael clarified, “No, just me and Piper.” Daniel looked oddly at Michael. “Really? You and Piper?” Michael shook his head. “No, not like that. We just hung out.” Daniel’s momentarily intense curiosity disappeared and he got the bartender’s attention, ordering a beer. The bartender looked at Michael, who said, “The house red.”

Daniel and Michael continued their conversation. Not long after they received their drinks, Sophia walked by them with a big smile. She lingered just long enough to pat Michael’s shoulder and squeeze Daniel’s hand before walking to a table of four. She was out of earshot, but Michael watched her gestures and facial expressions. “Charismatic” was a word that came to mind. “Self-assured” was another. Everything about her presence said, “I am a culinary rock star.” Michael was pleased simply watching her performance, a presentation that, given what Michael knew of her, was genuine. She was the shit.

After Sophia disappeared back to the kitchen, the hostess took Daniel and Michael to a table. There were no menus—Sophia was the menu. Appropriate. It would have been a crime to hide her exclusively in the kitchen. This was her restaurant. Her dazzling animation was as much a part of the dining experience as the food and wine. When she walked up to Michael and Daniel she squatted, smiled with a twinkle in her eye, and made lingering, meaningful eye contact with each of them. Michael was surprised by how much more powerful her presence was when directed exclusively at him.

Sophia spoke with eloquence, grace, and amiable confidence. “I recommend the roast duck,” and she explained in detail the nuances of the dish, how it was prepared, and which wine to order with the meal before describing other possibilities. Michael felt like giving her a standing ovation. She had modified her natural gregariousness into a polished and professional display. She smiled and laughed easily without losing focus. Daniel said no to the duck even though Sophia said he would be missing out. Michael, on the other hand, enthusiastically ordered the roasted fowl. Sophia winked at Michael and patted his hand. “Good choice.” Daniel and Michael agreed on the recommended wine before Sophia stood up and walked back to the kitchen.

As Daniel and Michael conversed, a server brought their drinks and salads. A bit later, their meals arrived. The duck smelled divine. The meat slid from the bone after Michael merely brushed a fork against it. As he took a bite, flavors burst from the tender, succulent bird. Yams and crisp, spiced green beans accompanied. The chosen wine was an excellent complement to the duck. Michael ate slowly, savoring each bite, and as he ate it became evident to his senses that, yes, now a yam and now a bite of duck then water to cleanse the palate and now the wine followed by duck. Michael offered Daniel a bite of the duck and Daniel lit up just as Michael had after his first bite.

On and on the meal went, the aesthetic experience becoming ever more complex as greater subtleties within flavors became evident. Michael's surroundings did not cease to exist; rather, Daniel's presence, as well as that of the entire café, burst forth with more life. Sounds, smells, and sights came alive precisely because the food and wine delivered to the willing vessel the means to reach a higher plane, an experience available only to aesthetes capable of distinguishing, through extraordinary concentration, gradations of sensations. 

Sophia came back to the table, squatted, and looked at Michael. With tears in his eyes, his expression communicated a surety that the duck had flown straight from heaven to van Kerkwijk. Sophia laughed upon seeing Michael in his state and said she was happy that he was enjoying the duck, a profound understatement. When she looked at Daniel, he gestured at Michael and smilingly said, “I should have ordered the duck.” She enthusiastically rubbed his face in it. “I tried to tell you!”

Sophia then proceeded to go through dessert options. Daniel ordered crème brulee while Michael fell for the chocolate tart with a Bastogne biscuit base. Sophia nodded her head while looking at Daniel and jutting a thumb at Michael. Daniel chuckled and shrugged his shoulders. “He has good taste.” Sophia rose and walked to another table, leaving scents of vibrancy behind. 

The desserts came shortly after the entrees were removed. The final course brought to the evening a peak experience for Michael and, possibly, for Daniel. They shared their desserts and Daniel acknowledged that Michael, once again, had made the better choice. Digestifs followed. They drank them slowly, relaxing in the soft afterglow of a wonderful meal. Once they had finished, they went to the bar and ordered more wine. The night was growing long as the two continued talking, laughing easily, and radiating goodness. Sophia stopped by occasionally as the cafe gradually emptied.

By midnight, the café had officially closed, the front doors locked by a server. The bartenders were cleaning up and Sophia came out of the kitchen to take an extended break with Daniel and Michael. She looked tired but happy. She poured herself a glass of wine from behind the bar. Michael noticed one of the bartenders had started on a beer himself and the other soon joined him. The five of them talked for half an hour while a couple servers cleaned tables. For Michael, it was a joy to be welcomed into yet another after-hours cafe scene. Being befriended by bartenders, servers, and gourmet chefs was, indeed, one of the greatest gifts Michael had received in Amsterdam. It was a unique and, to most, unknown club. 

Sophia asked Michael about Piper. He evaded the question with some embarrassment. Sophia not so subtly encouraged Michael “to go for it." She continued on about how Piper was into him while slinging an arm around his shoulders. She squeezed his cheeks with her other hand while looking at Daniel, saying, “Who wouldn’t love this guy, huh?” After Michael's reddened cheeks resumed their natural color, he mentioned his bicycle accident. He had mentioned it to Daniel earlier, but he told the story again to the bartenders and Sophia. The tale amused the group and prompted Daniel to say, “You can’t officially be an Amsterdammer until you've had a bicycle accident. Everyone wipes out at some point.” Michael also brought up his encounter with the young Americans. After that, there was a round of crazy stories about visitors to Amsterdam. One of the bartenders said it was no different than falling off a bike: anyone living in Amsterdam for any time at all had come across visitors doing something bizarre or ridiculous.

Sophia indicated she and the bartenders needed to finish cleaning up. She kissed Daniel passionately and said, “I’ll see you around two or so.” Daniel then insisted on paying the bill even though Michael protested vociferously. Daniel said, “You always pay.” Michael shook his head in dismay, “Only at Bloem.” Daniel gesticulated and said, “Exactly.” After another minute of protest, Michael gave up, too fat and happy to argue for long.

When Michael and Daniel left, they smoked cigarettes next to their bikes. Daniel said to Michael, “If Sophia wasn’t coming over later I’d suggest going elsewhere for another drink.” Michael replied, “That's okay. Another night. I feel perfect right now, anyway. Thanks for inviting me--and treating me.” Daniel said, “I’m glad you came. It was a pleasure. You're always good company.” He smiled warmly as he continued, “Sophia’s the one to thank, for inviting us and for the delicious meal.” Michael replied, “Definitely. I thanked her, but I feel like I should carry her around the city for a month out of gratitude. Hell, she treated me at the club, too.” Daniel looked confused. Michael was about to mention the ecstasy, but a thought about Piper popped into his mind so he said, “What do you make of what Sophia said about Piper?” Daniel shrugged. “I don't know. You have good instincts. What do you think?”

Michael put out his cigarette then said, “For the life of me, I can’t read her. She’s a riddle in a bottle buried underneath the sands of Venus. I love that about her, but I’m completely befuddled about how to approach her. Sometimes she seems interested then indifferent then repulsed by me then interested again. I’d like to quit thinking about her, but I can’t.” Daniel seemed to find Michael's confusion thoroughly amusing as his grin had grown wider and wider as Michael spoke. He patted Michael on the shoulder and said, reassuringly, "I wouldn’t worry about it too much. You’ll make it worse fretting. Whatever happens, happens. It’s not like your options are limited. You’re in Amsterdam.” Michael thanked Daniel. He had always been supportive of Michael and consistently provided him with sage advice.

With that, Daniel and Michael hopped on their respective bikes and rode away, Daniel to the north and Michael to the south.