Monday, March 30, 2015

Amsterdam Seventy-Seven: Young Americans


I picked up a dose of Mexican shrooms on the way back to my apartment. It was running deeper into the evening so I ate them immediately after arriving home. I emptied the contents of my backpack and placed Murder in Amsterdam on the dining table to read another day. I washed up, put on a jacket, grabbed my dugout and wallet, and left. I didn’t feel like hanging at home while shrooming. I originally intended to explore underlying issues related to relationships, but that moment had passed. The weather was too nice to stay inside and I wanted the night air. Even though I hadn’t been shrooming as much, the Mexican was the weakest strain. I figured it would be perfect for a night out.

I rode my bike to Leidseplein and parked it on a crowded rack next to the massive Art Deco American Hotel. My bike was getting scratched up from all the tight fits, but overall it was still in good shape. Parking bikes in Amsterdam was like parking cars in Chicago neighborhoods. Dings were inevitable; no reason to fret. Just chill and quit worrying. 

I walked to the square and almost got flattened by two young women twisting and turning while looking at a giant fold-out map. They apologized, speaking English. Young Americans, ditzy young Americans, full of pop and wow, eyes wide, confused, excited, and anxious, but feverishly wanting everything all at once. Before I could stop myself, I asked them if they needed help; I felt pity for them with their gigantic unwieldy map splayed out for all the Leidseplein to see. I saw the smirks and shakes of heads all around. It was too early in the year for dumbstruck young tourists in the middle of the Leidseplein. Every move they made screamed "We're clueless!"

When they heard me speak English they excitedly jumped and exuded “thank gawwwwwds” as if I was a wise man walking through the desert with a gallon of water. I calmed them and said, “There are plenty of people here who speak English. This isn't North Korea. The culture is different, but not that different, you know?” One woman had light brown hair and the other was a dark brunette. The darker brunette said, “Yeah, it is—pot is legal here!” Oh, dear fucking fuck. “Yeah, that’s true. Are you looking for a coffeeshop or something?” I turned to the bright neon of the garish Bulldog coffeeshop, probably the most well-known outpost of the most obnoxious chain of coffeeshops in Amsterdam, truly the McDonald’s of coffeeshops. I felt nauseous the first time I saw this coffeeshop. If it had been the only coffeeshop in all of Amsterdam then I would have held my nose and purchased some buds. Fortunately, the city is civilized.

As goofy and horrifyingly naïve as these girls seemed—they were acting like girls so I thought of them that way—I didn’t want to send them to the Bulldog. No, I couldn't in good conscience. Fortunately, they weren’t looking for a coffeeshop at the time. The lighter brunette said, “We’re looking for the International Budget Hostel.” A good choice, but I quickly asked if they had reservations. The lighter brunette said they did. Maybe they weren’t lost in the desert after all. I let go of judgmentalness and told them I could show them where it is. “It’s not far at all.” I had stayed at the Amsterdam Inn on the other side of the Leidsegracht on my second trip to Amsterdam. “My name's Michael, by the way.” The lighter-haired brunette introduced herself as Heather and the darker-haired girl was named Danielle. 

The shrooms hit me as we walked by the Melkweg on Lijnbaansgracht. The lights shimmering on the canal exploded vibrantly, euphoria warmed my body, holiness dripped from my eyes. My relative disinterest in the girls was obliterated by a profound understanding that I was walking with two human beings, life forms not so different than me—presumably. Alive and aware in a universe of lifelessness. I looked at the women—I no longer thought of them as girls; too denigrating. I was surprised that they weren’t as awed by existence as I was. I wanted to open their eyes, to really open them, so that they could be amazed by being in a foreign land while walking freely wherever they wanted. It didn't even matter that we couldn’t fly.

As we crossed over the bridge I found words. “What are you doing … after the, um … hostel?” Fucking Mexicans were punching me harder than I expected. Heather shook her head and Danielle said, “We need to find some pot.” Ah. Heather asked me, “Do you know a good coffeeshop?” Did I know a good coffeeshop? Was it possible to know a coffeeshop? No more than to know a brick or a bee. “I know of good coffeeshops.” That felt right. That meant something. Still, the women looked disturbed. “Listen, I can walk you to a good coffeeshop.” They looked satisfied.

As we walked on the sidewalk toward the hostel, several walkers passed us from the other direction. I had great difficulty walking by them because it wasn’t always clear which group would step in the street, ours or theirs. The women, fortunately, seemed to have a sense of how to do this. They may not have been aware that they were alive, but they knew how to negotiate their way through space around object beings. I desperately wanted to hug the people we passed, to wake them up with a brush of love, but I was only able to peer at them with intimate intentions. Only a few saw me and they didn't like being noticed.

Momentary sadnesses dissipated quickly as more walkers came forward and the lights of apartment windows called for my attention. There was constant motion and sometimes I couldn’t tell if it was my motion or the motion of others. The windows and the objects therein seemed to be in motion as well, but that didn't agree with me. I saw a lamp shimmering and wondered if there were department stores with salespeople who might ask me if I wanted a lamp dance. Lap dances were common, but lamp dances? I would pay for that. 

A smattering of backpacking vagabonds in small clusters hovered outside the hostel. Danielle asked me to wait for them as they went inside. Her words were mixed with the sounds emanating from the vagabonds uttering at different volumes. I turned to my right and saw bright lights coming at me at a clip outpacing a comet. I screamed and wildly scampered toward the canal. I wrapped an arm around a tree and my feet lifted off the ground before swinging back to the dirt. Holy shit, that was close; I had nearly run into the canal. If the tree hadn’t been there, I would have. More importantly, I had narrowly escaped from the oncoming lights. However, when I looked at the street all I saw was a tiny Volkswagen puttering along. 

Violent laughter from the stagnant wanderers pierced my ears. I looked their way while clinging to the tree. Their faces were contorted, some benignly amused, others maliciously enjoying themselves. I felt hurt, embarrassed, but then angry. All of the emotions seemed disembodied and I watched them above me as they took shape. The colors molted and bled into each other; different emotions were created, emotions I couldn't identify at all. The shapes dispersed until there was nothing but a hazy blood mist. It was a message: Emotional harms were physiological.

I lit a cigarette and sat with my legs dangling over the embankment of the canal. Lights slowly swam on the surface as I watched cars, bicycles, and pedestrians moving on the other side. The sky was orange and low-hanging clouds were lit up ominously by the city lights. I couldn't think clearly and I could tell it was because the lit windows of the apartments across the way made a pattern I couldn't identify. I closed my eyes, but that just made everything more confusing.

As I puffed my cigarette, I looked at my watch, but I it didn't make sense at all. I looked back up and across the canal. The procession of objects continued. The canal flowed slowly, at pace with the walkers. Everything moved, even the buildings, mostly because the lights from cars and scooters forced them to stretch and condense. There was always something shifting. Movement wasn't merely visible. The sounds moved, too. Sounds of cars, people talking, and cyclists ringing bells. The feelings in my body shifted as well; air moved across my face and hands. My butt numbed and my back ached. Change was constant.

I tossed my cigarette aside, stood up, walked over to the tree, and pulled out my dugout, grinding pot into my bat. As I lit up I felt the shrooms jack up even more. The effects were heavily sensory. Not sensual, sensory. My mind remained busy attending to my senses and I had to will myself to give up on organization. Only one small group of vagabonds remained. They had lost interest in me; just as well. They were creatures that existed, no more living from my perspective than the dancing lamps. They moved and created sounds, but it was impossible to tell if the movement was internally or externally generated. Either way, they weren't sentient. They walled themselves from any notice of the world as if it wasn't all around them. They traded sound symbols while the physical world swirled.

It was difficult to fathom such obliviousness. They might have been mechanistically organic. I wasn’t negatively judging; I simply noticed. Why should awareness be the most valuable quality of being, though? It was difficult to shake that value, to conceive of an alternative characteristic that was preferable. I sighed and slumped against the tree. It didn’t notice me, but I connected with it. I was connected and disconnected simultaneously; I couldn’t distinguish where connection ended and disconnection began. Inexplicable without being chaotic, no way to understand what was happening or why. A car driving down the road? A cyclist following behind? Sequences, yes, but that explained nothing. Was there a purpose?

I had to fight off the notion that it was all a ruse, a massive citywide performance put together for me, like I was in the Truman Show. I wasn't worth the effort. The city’s resources could be put to better use than creating an illusion of meaning through movement. Funny, but ridiculous. I ran across the street to the group of wanderers, each of them disheveled, young, ethnic in a way I couldn't classify. Then again, I couldn't classify too well at all. I said, “Hey, there’s a lot going on right now. It may be of no consequence to you, but the whole city is moving around. I don't know if you're sentient or not, it doesn't appear that you are, but just in case I wanted you to know so you could appreciate all of this activity and the strange shapes and colors and sounds everywhere. It's possible that it's being done for our benefit, but it might be just for me. That's all I have to say about that.”

The vagabonds smiled and laughed, signs of recognition. The women walked out of the hostel toward me. Danielle asked if the wanderers were my friends. She and Heather had changed clothes; they looked ready to go out and have fun. I couldn’t really register whether I was attracted to them or not. They seemed like “two more” rather than “two more women who are attractive” or “two more women who are not attractive.”

Before I could say anything the women were talking with the guys. I tried to follow the conversation, but there were too many voices overlapping. Everything was in English, but the guys had accents. From the four corners of the Earth they had come: Air, fire, water, earth. Elementals talking with two humanlings of female persuasion. I, an awareness observing the happenings without the ability to categorize. Their liveliness was more interesting than the cars and cyclists, but that might have been due to proximity. With the backdrop of cars, cycles, buildings, trees, the canal, and the lights on the streets from the apartment windows, I felt like I was watching a play that insisted I had a role within it, possibly a concoction of Antonin Artaud. Perhaps he had never died and all I had experienced in life was his ongoing work.

Layers layered even as I noticed that the elementals and humanlings were looking at me. They were expectant, but I didn't know what was expected. I wanted to observe, but my character hadn’t been written out of the script quite yet. I blinked a few times, tried to change my perspective, and opened my mouth to let out sound symbols. “I’m supposed to say something now, aren’t I?” The entire lot of them burst into laughter. One of the vagabonds spoke up. “Man, what are you on?”

I just looked at the guy, exasperated that he could wonder about something so mundane. One of his buddies grabbed his attention and then the four guys walked to the south, jabbering gibberish to one another on the way. For whatever reason, the women didn’t go with them. I asked them why. Danielle laughed and said, “Because they’re going to a club for gay men. Weren’t you listening?” I shrugged. Heather wanted to go to a coffeeshop; they looked at me expectantly. I had somehow gotten roped into being their escort for the evening. They looked at me like I was insane which brought me back into their world a bit. I said, “Oh. Um, I guess we should go, right?”

I started walking without being attentive to which way I was going. We had to stumble onto a coffeeshop somewhere; they were everywhere after all. The women followed me, apparently believing I knew where I was going. As we came to the bridge to cross onto Prinsengracht, I momentarily forgot what we were doing. I had gotten lost in the trees above. Buds were beginning to sprout a little. I was so happy that it was finally happening. I remembered why the women were with me for no discernible reason at all. No matter which direction I walked we would be in Amsterdam and this seemed to be rather important.

The women were walking on either side of me and when they spoke it was like hearing sounds from speakers on opposite sides of the room. I thought of Heather as a devil on my left shoulder and Danielle as an angel on my right. They were neither good nor evil, just symbols of left and right. A thought that decided it wanted to be thought. The devil asked me if I was Dutch. I turned to her and asked, “What do you think?” She said, “I don’t know. Do you live here?” I looked down. “No, not right at this spot, although I’m alive right here right now.” The angel giggled. “You’re really weird.” I turned to her and said, “I suppose it’s because I’m Dutch.” The devil said, “Really? You speak English so well. You don’t even have an accent.” I said, “Of course not. I’ve been speaking English longer than either one of you have been alive.” No comments after that. “Sorry, I didn’t intend to be rude. It just happened that way.” The angel repeated, “You're so weird.”

We crossed a bridge at the end of the block and walked along the Prinsengracht next to the canal, out of the street. We had to dodge trees, bike racks, and parked cars, but being near the railing next to the canal allowed wonderful views of the apartments across the way, particularly the brightly-lit apartment windows which left wavy reflections of neon pastels on the surface of the canal. The women loved this as much as I did and I enjoyed listening to them talk with one another about how romantic the canals were and how wonderful it was to be in such a fairy-tale city.

They were walking next to one another and I was closest to the street. My vibe mellowed, warmth spread throughout my body, a gentle buzzing love. As I watched the women, I wondered how they had come to trust me, but I was also happy watching them being happy. Months ago I would have found it strange to be guiding two women around Amsterdam while I was shrooming, but no longer. Why wouldn't it be this way?

Danielle said, “It must have been incredible living here your whole life.” I looked at her and smiled, but said, “I haven’t lived here my whole life.” She looked surprised. “I’ve traveled a lot.” Both of the women seemed intrigued. “It’s a long story.” We walked a little further then Heather said, “So, what’s the story?” I sighed then said, "I’ll tell you when we find a coffeeshop. You guys want a toke now, though?” They said yes so I grinded weed into the bat for each of them and then took a couple hits of my own.

We continued walking along the Prinsengracht and I realized we were heading east. Shit, west and north would have led to better coffeeshops in the Nieuwe Zijde. Then again, they didn’t know any better. On the other hand, I didn’t know if they were experienced smokers, if they had access to quality buds where they lived. “I usually don’t ask this question because it’s often inconsequential, but it might give me an idea of the quality of buds you smoke.” Danielle said they were from Atlanta. I didn’t know shit about Atlanta so that was no help at all. “Good herb in Atlanta?” The women said in unison, “Oh, yeah, definitely.” I asked them what types of buds had been floating around before they left. “Train Wreck, New York Diesel, Bubble Gum, OG Kush?” Blank stares. Uh oh. Well, back to girls again.

We crossed Leidsestraat and continued following Prinsengracht. We came up to the Easy Times Coffeeshop and the girls looked at me expectantly. I had only been there once in the past. The interior was spacious, a mix of tables and chill-out spaces. The music had been loud, too loud, I remembered that. It wouldn’t have been my choice, but for their purposes it was good enough. The weed selection wasn’t bad from what I remembered. The quality was okay, too, fairly fresh, possibly due to turnover. I couldn’t remember how well it was cut, but it didn’t really matter.

When we went inside, there was reggae blasting, but not as loud as I had remembered. Probably just the result of gradual hearing loss. I asked Heather and Danielle whether they wanted to get a bong or a vaporizer to smoke at a table, the bar, or the cushioned seats in the back. They looked at one another, indecisive. “You can get pre-rolled joints, too, if you don’t want to stay or even if you want to stay but want to be able to smoke after you leave. It’s not worth buying a pipe if you’re not going to be in Amsterdam long.” They agreed on pre-rolled joints.

As we stepped up to the counter I asked them if they wanted mixed joints or straight-up weed. Again, cluelessness. “Mixed joints are a blend of tobacco and pot. The tobacco keeps the joint burning, but obviously you’re inhaling less weed each hit. They’re cheaper, though, so you can always purchase a few to go.” I pointed at the menu and they took their time looking. The chap working gave us space. The place wasn’t crowded, not even half full, but it was early in the week during the off-season and the place was big. Danielle asked me about the difference between haze and Kush joints. “Haze is a sativa and Kush is an indica.” That didn’t seem to help at all. “They have different effects. Some think haze has stronger effects, but I personally like Kush because I get an 'airy' high, a little more euphoria. But that’s me. Everybody has different body and brain chemistry so you never know until you try them. Believe me, though, I like the haze, too. Just depends on how you want to feel.”

Danielle nodded her head and looked back down. She seemed to be pretending to understand which made me lean toward suggesting a mixed joint, perhaps neither pure haze nor pure Kush, just the generic weed joint mixed with tobacco. That was my suggestion for smoking in the place and maybe they could purchase a few more of each type to go. “Depends on whether you’re okay with tobacco.” Heather got the bud merchant’s attention and ordered a mixed weed joint, a pure haze joint, and a pure Kush joint. Danielle still looked unsure, but she skipped the mixed joints and went with one pure haze and one pure Kush joint.

After they paid we went toward the back to sit on the colorful cushioned seats. There were ochre and lavender strips of Arabian thin sheer fabric several feet wide strewn across the ceiling, pinned every eight feet, give or take, light purple walls near the top of the ceilings highlighted by individual lights spaced a few feet apart from one another, the color of the lower half of the walls a light but raw umber. Black and cracked silver-top coffee tables and end tables were scattered here and there, some with ashtrays and some with purplish vases with lit candles emitting pleasing scents. The reggae wasn’t quite as loud in the back; that, or I had acclimated to it.

We found a spot with an ashtray and sat down around the coffee table. Heather asked why I didn’t purchase anything. I pulled the dugout out of my pocket and waved it. She smiled and said, “Oh, yeah.” I loaded the bat and had a toke. The effects of the shrooms had lessened, but the herb enhanced them again. The softly lit interior had a pleasing ambience. The place was better than I had remembered, but maybe that was because of the time of year. I sat back and my body melded with the cushion. I watched Heather light up then cough. I asked her if she smoked cigarettes. She shook her head no. “Why did you get the mixed joint then?” Her eyes were watering and when she finally stopped her coughing spasms she croaked, “Because you said they stay lit.” I tried not to laugh, managed to keep it to a chuckle. Danielle, meanwhile, confidently lit up. I asked if she was smoking the Kush or the haze. “Haze.” I asked them how often they smoked. I loaded my bat again as Heather answered. “It kind of goes in streaks. Danielle’s boyfriend sometimes has weed and he smokes us up. Otherwise, at parties.”

“So, are you backpacking through Europe, just staying in Amsterdam, or … what?” Danielle took another hit and I could see her eyes were starting to glaze over. Heather had only taken one toke and she had put her joint on the lip of the ashtray. She said, “We’re backpacking. We're here for a couple days then Paris and the south of France. After that, we haven’t decided.” I asked Heather if they had Eurail passes. “Yeah. One month.” I smiled. “That’s how I did it the first time.” Danielle took another hit and as I was about to tell her to slow down Heather said, “What do you mean you did it that way? You said you were Dutch.”

Oh, yeah. I smiled and said, “I am, but I didn’t live here until I was an adult. I grew up in the States.” I was loved making up stories for the kids. If they came crashing down so be it. I said to Heather, “Have another puff. You need to catch up to your crazy friend. She’s going to smoke that whole joint in a couple of minutes.” As I said that Danielle was about to light up again. Her eyes were slits. “Danielle, whoa, slow down. You’re not going to be able to walk if you keep it up.” I was even more concerned that she was going to get sick. If she didn’t smoke daily and wasn't used to higher quality pot then, well, it wouldn’t be good. I figured about two puffs would have been adequate for each of them, maybe three for Heather since she was smoking a mixed joint. I didn’t expect Danielle to puff and puff and puff so relentlessly.

Danielle didn’t seem to hear me at all as she took another hit. She put down the joint—thankfully, but she didn’t even make it to the ashtray. I picked it up and put it on the lip. She was baked. At least we weren’t far from their hostel. I was ready to go; the shrooms were still affecting me in a mild, easygoing way and I wanted to be outside to enjoy them more. The interior ambience was nice, but the girls were now too stoned to be entertaining. Danielle was a lump and Heather was swaying in her seat. At least she had a dreamy smile on her face.

“Do you want to get some fresh air, walk around the city, enjoy being high outside?” Danielle’s eyes were closed. She may have passed out, it was hard to tell. Heather, though, pouted for a second and then smiled a wavy gravy smile. “No, maaaaan, let’s staaaaay.” There were a couple of other small groups in the lounge area nearby. I saw them look over, laughing a little. They were foreigners, too, but obviously more familiar with coffeeshops. Watching noobs get high created a mixture of amusement and annoyance. I felt some sense of responsibility for the girls; why that should be, I wasn’t sure. I just didn’t want them to get lost or pass out on the street.

Empathy, I thought, empathy. I had been young once, after all. Heather took another hit then put the last half of her joint back in the green tube and capped it with the lid before putting it in her coat pocket. Danielle, meanwhile, had opened her eyes. They were still slits and her face was pale. She looked like a zombie. I asked her if she was okay. She responded with a whimpering gurgle. I said to Heather, still with a shit-eating grin on her face, that we needed to get Danielle outside before she yacked. Heather frowned and exaggeratedly slurred to Danielle, “Don’t worrrrry, babeeee, I here unnn youuuuu are soooooo beyoooooful.” Then she fell back into her seat cackling uncontrollably. Her laugh was infectious; I wasn't the only one in the room laughing with or at her.

I took a hard look at Danielle. She was only going to get worse. If she hadn’t smoked so much so fast. Ah, youth. Danielle had given me a gift: I remembered why I was glad to be in my thirties. I decided some water was in order so I went to the bar and ordered a couple bottles. When I got back I realized it was definitely time to go. Danielle had toppled over on the seat and was about to fall on the ground. She was moaning horribly. Heather, meanwhile, was laughing so hard she was snorting. I helped Danielle sit up and opened a bottle of water. She only took a few sips and then cringed. I looked over at Heather and said, “Help me get Danielle out of here.” Heather was still laughing, guffawing, with a huge snot bubble growing out of one of her nostrils. I started laughing, too. She wiped it on her sleeve and turned to me. “What did you say?” I laughingly said, “Help me get Danielle outside. She's super fucked up.”

That sobered Heather just enough for her to stand up. She stumbled a bit and while she did I put one of Danielle’s arms around me and stood her up. Her head flopped back as I started walking her out, her feet dragging more than walking. Heather was no help at all. She swerved back and forth in front of me, almost falling down, but somehow maintained her balance. As we waddled through the bar, the looks on the faces of the other customers ranged from amusement to disdain. The guy behind the bar just shook his head and sighed. I didn’t disagree.

As we neared the door I heard a round of applause. It was a ridiculous situation. I finally got Danielle outside into the fresh air and walked her to the railing of the Prinsengracht. Heather weaved her way to us. I looked back and saw a couple people from the coffeeshop walking outside. They stood across the street smiling widely while watching. A few pedestrians walking nearby took an interest as well. I felt Danielle’s body tense and then heard the godawful sound of retching. I held her hair back as she heaved again, this time watching the yellowish-orange goo spew from her mouth into the canal. I had barely gotten her outside in time.

Heather, meanwhile, was talking with the pedestrians behind me. I couldn’t make out what she was saying; her voice was loud, but incoherent. There was a chorus of laughter after that and then a huge roar of laughter. I turned around and saw that she had fallen in the street. I shifted my eyes a little bit and saw a car coming toward her. I yelled, “Get the fuck out of the street, Heather!” As I yelled, Danielle convulsed again and I had to turn away from Heather to hold Danielle tight. She heaved so powerfully her feet left the ground. She had been on the cusp of falling over the railing into the canal.

When I looked back toward the street, I saw the car had stopped and a couple of the guys who had been watching were helping Heather to the sidewalk near the entrance to Easy Times. Jesus Christ, these girls. Danielle let rip a rapid series of dry heaves before slumping to the ground. I had one of the bottles of water with me so I opened it. I looked into her eyes and saw she was still dazed; she was in pain, but at least more alert. “Do you want some water?” She nodded so I held it to her lips. She took several sips then took the bottle from me and drank more. I pulled it away from her after she had drank nearly half of it. I didn’t want her to puke again.

“Can you stand up?” She nodded and wiped her mouth with her coat sleeve. She smelled rank, but I helped her up. She was almost steady on her feet and there was a little more color in her face. I put my arm under hers around her waist and walked her across the street. Heather was leaning against the building, laughing and spitting gibberish with her eyes closed. One of the guys who had helped her was standing nearby, smiling widely. He looked at me and said something in Dutch. I shook my head in disgust and he laughed.

I asked Heather if she could walk. She opened her eyes and said, “I thaw you lefff meeeee!” I shook my head again, the disdain disappearing, and laughed at her. “No, I’m still here. Let's walk back to the hostel, okay?” Heather eyes slowly slid shut then they popped wide open then slowly slid shut and popped wide open again. “I’m going to take that as a yes.” I put my arm under hers and wrapped it around her waist just as I had with Danielle. This was going to be a challenge.

We began walking down the sidewalk toward Leidsestraat. Well, I walked and they shuffled and dragged, occasionally losing their balance, nearly making me fall over. We managed to cross the street without being killed by a tram or a car, threatened only by whistles and hollers from other drunk and stoned pedestrians. The walk to Leidsegracht seemed to take forever. I had to stop twice to readjust my arms under them. Heather, fortunately, began to regain her step which made it easier to deal with Danielle’s uncoordinated lurches. Once we crossed the bridge and turned toward the International Budget Hostel I felt confident we were going to make it. My arms, legs, and back were exhausted, though.

Once we got to the hostel, I helped Danielle sit down on the sidewalk and lean against the building. Heather was able to stand on her own so I stretched out my back and my calves. “Man, that was some fucking work.” Heather said, “I knowwww. Walking, yeah, it, um, yeah, harrrd.” I laughed. “Yeah, well, you did most of the work, Heather, so I’m sure you’re wiped out.” She looked puzzled. Well, stoned and puzzled. “Youuuu ... I help youuuu?” I kept a straight face and said, “Yeah, I wouldn’t have made it without you.” Heather hugged herself and said in a self-satisfied voice, “I gooooooood.” She walked over to me and threw her arms around my neck to hug me. Once again, I was holding her up. Her head was against my chest as she said, “Youuuuu welcummmm, Matt.” Matt, Michael, whatever. I sighed and waited for her to let go. She kept holding onto me and, after nearly half a minute, I thought she had fallen asleep. I looked at Danielle and her head was between her legs. I wasn’t sure if she was passed out or if she was going to hurl again. Either way, it looked like one of the most painful sitting positions I could imagine.

I finally wiggled out of the sleeping hug and said, “Well, I should get going. I can help Danielle inside then you take her the rest of the way, okay?” Heather’s head shot up, smacking me on the chin and making me bite my tongue. Fuck! I was distracted from the pain and barely noticed that she was planting a good one on me. I broke the embrace and, as I did, I put both my hands on her cheeks and said, “We have to get your friend inside.” Her eyes were hazy and dreamy. She said “okay,” and I positioned myself to lift Danielle by putting my arms underneath both her armpits. I used my legs and lifted her up. She staggered a bit and then leaned against me.

It seemed to take hours for her muscles to work. She was practically a slinky. As I walked to the door, Heather put her arm around me again and pulled down my head to kiss me. I couldn’t stop her without dropping Danielle, but I managed to pull my head back long enough to say, “Take your friend inside.” Heather shook her head vigorously. “No.” I looked up at the tree across the street and said to myself “Why me?” I looked back down and Heather kissed me again. This time it was a good kiss, but I still pulled away. I whispered, “Look, you’re really great and a lot fun, but I need to go and your friend really needs to lie down. She's not doing well. But, look, you're are going to have a great trip. You’ll remember it forever.” Well, except for the past hour or two.

Heather blinked her eyes and smiled before slurring, “Youuuu urrrr soooo sweeee.” I helped Heather take control of Danielle then held open the door to the hostel. As they stumbled inside, Heather said goodbye in a sing-song voice. I turned and filled my bat as I walked away. After I took a hit and exhaled, I thought, “Goddamn, I should have gotten paid for that shit.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Anti-Affirmations


Affirmations for those with brains wired somewhat differently. Feel the peace, feel the love:
  • Patience is something and so is hatred so stop trying to distinguish between them.
  • If you stop caring about things it won't hurt so bad when nothing goes your way.
  • You are always an inch away from happiness, but you keep stepping in the wrong direction. Try stepping in the right direction! What? You don't know which direction is right? I'm sorry, this saying is already too long as it is,
  • If you believe in anything then you won't have to believe in something.
  • Nothing seems to go right for you ... which is great if you believe in nothing.
  • Tell people to shut their pie holes and you will feel empowered.
  • Exercising dominance over others is a surefire way to feel better about yourself.
  • Killing things that are beautiful will make you feel better about being ignored.
  • If you can't change yourself then make others change for you.
  • If you don't like the choices you've made then stop making choices.
  • No one cares about you.
  • If you die, no one will notice.
  • Even the best things you do make everyone sick to their stomach.
  • Stop trying. That's it, just stop.
  • Don't expect anything good to happen to you for no reason because nothing ever will.
  • Do you really believe that you matter? Please.
  • You are much weaker than you think.
  • Sure, you can be the best version of you. Fine. You still suck.
  • Think positive and be positive and you'll be completely vacuous.
  • Mistakes are proof that you don't know what the fuck you are doing.
  • A hug is a great gift, but it can land you in prison if you don't do it right.
  • Caring about what other people think will make you a prisoner of their thought. If you want to kill children then just do it!
  • Be nice to people so that they don't suspect that you're the serial killer they've been hearing about in the news.
  • Live in the moment so you can fully appreciate choking the life out of those you hate.
  • Love is something that you will never experience so focus your attention elsewhere.
  • Don't let your struggle become your identity; wear Batman costumes instead.
  • Surround yourself with positive people ... it'll be easier to kill them that way.
  • Never doubt your instincts; if the woman making your latte seems bitchy to you then act on your impulse to slam her head against the counter a few times. You will feel so much better.
  • Never give up because sometimes it's the fortieth insult that makes a child cry.
  • You know it was a good day if no one strangled you.
  • Happiness can be found even in darkness as long as you have electricity. If you're poor and can't afford electricity then you'll never find happiness. The good news is you'll eventually die.
  • Count your blessings, you obsessive compulsive bastard!
  • If you don't feel good then get high.
  • Your only mistake was listening to that bitch. Now kill her.
  • Killing is the only reliable way to deal with difficult people.
  • Pretend you live in a world where people care and you'll be severely disappointed by reality.
  • How can you believe in all the bullshit people tell you? You're fucking doomed.
  • You destroy everything you love. That's fucking awesome!
  • If you don't love yourself no one else will; if you love yourself no one else will. You're fucked.
  • Take all that anger and hatred and blow your ex-boyfriend's brains out. 
  • Life is a gift from God; he loves you so much he wanted you to be aware that you're going to die some day and go to hell for eternity because you weren't completely perfect. God's love is deranged, but you chose to believe in him so it's your own damn fault.
  • Stop saying "I wish" and start saying "I will" ... better yet, just burn down that fucking school already.
  • Curl up into a ball and cry.
  • Just give up 

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Amsterdam Seventy-Six: De Pijp


I left Saskia to her own devices, bidding her farewell. I tried to be kind in doing so, but all I could manage was gentility. It was enough, really. She had been at peace the entire time we were sitting together. We even enjoyed a conversation about tulips for half an hour. Well, flowers in general, but it started with tulips. I had asked her why the Dutch love flowers so much as an attempt to distract myself from my own thinking, to find a neutral and safe territory in which she might know much more than I so I could be the one sitting silently with my eyes closed in the shade.

To my delight, Saskia knew quite a bit about tulips as she was raised in Flevoland where her father had worked in the tulip industry. I wasn’t sure if he was a farmer, trader, tour guide, or what, exactly, because it was sometimes hard to follow Saskia’s English. Nevertheless, she was passionate about flowers so I was able to finally relax and let her fill my head with flower trivia to prevent my own thoughts from disabling me. On a warm day on the cusp of spring in Holland, flowers seemed an appropriate topic for discussion.

After providing a few details about life in Flevoland, an area of Holland I had never been and apparently the tulip growing region of The Netherlands, Saskia asked me if I had ever been to the Keukenhof Gardens. I shook my head no. I remembered the name, but I had never considered visiting. An out-of-the-way trip to visit a flower garden had never seemed all that appealing. I had thought Keukenhof was near Alkmaar or Enkhuisen and I didn’t want to take a train-and-bus trip for the sole purpose of flower gazing. Saskia, though, said that Keukenhof was near Schiphol. How had I gotten that wrong?

I interjected, “Yeah, but the garden is only open a couple months each year.” Saskia nodded her head and said, “Yes, middle March to middle May.” Shit, that was just a couple weeks away. I realized that I had never been in The Netherlands in the spring. Seeing the tulips had been one of the few things my ex really wanted to see. I was more than happy to go, but work and law school schedules had prevented spring trips.

“Is it worth seeing?” Saskia vigorously nodded her head. “Yes, very beautiful.” I enjoyed strolling through the Singel flower market, but I hadn’t thought of visiting flower gardens for the aesthetic experience. How had I missed that idea? Other priorities, I guess. Saskia explained that Keukenhof wasn’t exclusively tulips and there weren’t the big fields like there were in Flevoland. There were many different types of gardens and walking paths throughout. I asked her how big the gardens were. “I don’t know. Very big.” I needed to look up the Keukenhof as well as Dutch happenings in the spring.

“There is castle, too.” A castle? That pretty much sealed the deal. Who didn’t love a fucking castle? Fucking castles were great. It had been years since I had seen a castle and nearly a decade since I had walked around inside castles. I had viewed medieval castles along the Rhine from a boat cruise, viewed them on the way to Trier while on a cycling excursion along the Mosel, toured inside them throughout Germany, France, and Austria, and spent a weekend in a castle that had been converted into a hotel. All of that seemed like ancient history. I needed to see a castle again. Flowers would be a bonus.

Saskia told me a little about the beginnings of Holland’s romance with tulips. It wasn’t very romantic. In fact, I felt my stomach turning as she told me that in the Golden Age tulips traded for ghastly sums. “One bulb sell for fifty kilometer square.” What?! “Not all bulb, only one.” I was a little confused, but I got the sense that one bulb had sold for a massive amount of land. Speculation had driven up the prices. It sounded like a tulip version of the tech bubble, a precursor to modern capitalist abstractions of value. The necessities of life have to be in such abundance that rare baubles become exorbitantly more valuable commodities than land, shelters, food, and means of transportation. It doesn’t have to be the case for everyone in a society, but for those who could take those basics for granted, spending excess wealth on what, in lean times, would be considered frivolous stupidity. That was a parlor game best known as status acquisition. No wonder there was a castle in the midst of the flower gardens.

The Dutch were the ultimate traders and had as much to do with the onset of capitalism as any country. Capitalism was a good system to get the economics ball rolling, to push society into creating an advanced infrastructure, but once it got going different economic systems made much more sense, especially in lieu of advanced technology. The Netherlands seemed to get that to some degree and had incorporated many socialist policies to complement their capitalist economic system. Still, I believed it was time to take the next step and, through my introduction to autonomism through Sterre, I thought a transition was due. The problem was the will of the people, the will to change, the will to look beyond one’s own self-interest to the interests of the community, the community now global through economic and technological expansion. Perhaps other steps were needed, though, before really transitioning to a system like libertarian socialism.

The problem was the four cornerstones of the Washington Consensus developed in the 1970s, a project of the World Bank and International Monetary Fund: 1) deregulate financial markets around the world and allow capital to flow freely from one country to another; 2) liberalize trade flow by breaking down trade barriers that had been put in place by developing countries to protect local industries; 3) reduce taxes to cripple the ability of sovereign states to intervene in economic affairs and protect the interests of citizens; 4) require states to privatize their industries in such a way as to ensure that the industries were sold below their real value to foreign investors.

This was another strand in the web of my thinking gleaned from indexing over the years. The Washington Consensus first began being implemented, in a broad way, in 1980, the beginning of the Reagan-Thatcher economic transformation, the onset of contemporary economic globalization, the process that was ongoing in developing countries (now known as emerging markets) and a process that was still in the early stages in the western nations that first supported these policies: Japan, the United States, and the countries of western and northern Europe.

I could see no way to reverse this process without eradicating or overhauling the international nongovernmental organizations such as the IMF, World Bank, and European Union. In addition, the Western countries of the United States, Europe, and Japan had politically supported this system since the 1980s, a system that was designed solely to benefit global banking, the global financial sector, and multinational corporations. Most of the wealth in the world was funneled to these institutions and corporations as well as the individual and family investors in the system, less than one percent of one percent of one percent of the top one percent of individuals in the world. So no matter how the middle class citizens of the Western world spend their money, they would not make enough of a dent in the global financial system to even be noticed because the money spent would be sucked into the stratosphere of the wealthy. The middle class in Europe and the United States would likely become the working poor then the poor and then the destitute.

Back to square one: powerlessness. I was picking up on a theme, macro-powerlessness and micro-powerlessness. I knew so much about how macro-processes worked, but there was no realistic way for me (or perhaps anyone) to change the dynamics. On the other hand, I understood so little about micro-processes and yet I was seemingly in a realistic position to address and change them. I had been doing that, to some degree, but my approach seemed doomed to an individualist effort and that wasn’t sufficient if the micro-processes that caused the greatest consternation involved relationships with others, particularly women. The only option that combined an individualist and communal approach was the autonomist/social anarchist movement. Even in that case, I wasn’t sure, but it was worth further exploration.

When my thoughts settled, Saskia was talking about communal gardening. Who knows what else she had been talking about while I was in economic la-la land, but I told her I had seen communal gardens from the train when leaving Amsterdam to travel to Haarlem in the past. It was a huge communal activity in Holland, especially cities as big as Amsterdam. I remembered my first trip to Europe seeing random people sitting in lawn chairs outside their garden huts—some quite elaborate—enjoying the sunshine and reading the paper amidst growing flowers, vegetables, and plants. It looked idyllic though I couldn’t imagine how it would be peaceful to read with trains whizzing by every few minutes. Maybe they used ear plugs or iPods.

I had removed myself from consternation and internally bitch-slapped myself for ruminating. I did want to explore what gave rise to beliefs about micro-relations, beliefs that only seemed to arise in situations of emotional distress. There was something there and even though I had an intellectual inkling of what was happening, I needed to focus some attention on the issue because I was tired of the self-loathing that arose from time to time after relatively minor events. It was almost as if I was suffering from posttraumatic stress related to my divorce and a few words or even looks from a woman could set me off if I was in a vulnerable emotional space.

The same never happened with men so I figured it had to be related to sexual or intimate relationship dynamics. I had come out the “loser” in a number of relationships; it disturbed me that the thought of “winners and losers” would even arise when thinking about relationships. Maybe I had been acculturated through Pat Benatar music videos from the early 80s. Or maybe “Love Is a Battlefield” was more than a simplistic cliché. I was probably just fucked up. That had been what I had thought for a long time. I wasn’t sure, but it dawned on me that shrooming might help me find what was hidden from view. That had been working for me; no reason to stop now.

That was my cue to say goodbye to Saskia, to thank her for the conversation and wish her well. She stood up and she kissed me on the cheeks before she walked with me to the bikes so we could unlock them. As I got ready to ride I asked her what she was going to do the rest of the day. She shrugged and smiled. “Hopefully nothing.” 

I rode south on Van Woustraat through Ceintuurbaan, but I got tired of riding along with so many cyclists next to cars and trams so I turned to the west on Kuipersstraat, a narrow but entirely residential stretch of street. However, given the direction the cars were parked on either side of the street I was clearly cycling the wrong way so I cut to the south first chance I got to Rustenburgerstraat, a similarly narrow residential side street with cars parked in the direction I was riding. The street was pleasantly clear of car traffic and there were only occasional cyclists. The only pedestrians I saw on the street were walking on the sidewalks on the other side of the parked cars. I needed the respite from busyness.

I couldn’t place the ages of the buildings. Some seemed more than a century old, others possibly less. I had no idea, but the styles were somewhat modified versions of the old canal houses in the city center, though certainly not as ornate or grand. As usual, most were about four stories high. If there had been more green space and trees between the buildings and the street as well as walk-up stoops and wider streets I could have easily pictured these buildings in Lincoln Park or even Wrigleyville. Some, though, were rather bland from the outside, but the narrowness of the street and the large size of the street-side windows gave even the less flattering buildings an old-world feel. It was obvious that they were nice apartments. I was pretty sure I was still in De Pijp, but not positive. Either way, this close to the center, the apartments and condos were undoubtedly pricey.

I passed what appeared to be a neighborhood elementary school. There was also one on Plantage Middenlaan and I was interested to see that the windows of the building had the same yellow and blue trim. Maybe that was the designation to mark that it was a school; I wasn’t sure. It was pretty obvious even without the color-coding, but maybe it was useful for the kinderen walking to school. There were children and adults outside and I heard a mixture of Dutch and French. 

I pedaled onward to the west, enjoying the hell out of this narrow little street. The blocks were long, but even the intersections were lazy. More trees popped up, ivy growing on walls, and ornate iron balconies. Then I noticed the cars were facing the other direction again. Fuck! Granted, no cars driving on the street, but still. I had planned on cycling the length of the street no matter how far it took me. The air was still warm, but the shade from riding east-to-west kept me cool. I didn’t want to change directions so I backtracked to the last intersection, turned north then west again on Van Ostadestraat. Sure enough, it was a narrow one-way heading west. I had to squeeze my way past a delivery truck parked in the middle of the street—there was only room for a “middle-of-the-street”—but I kept pedaling onward along an equally quiet road.

The buildings seemed slightly older. Weird, it was only a block to the north, but some buildings even had the hooks that stretched out from the top floor that were used as pulleys to transport furniture, pianos, and the like to the windows above the first floor, usually a sign that the building was older with narrow staircases. I passed a grand old church that may or may not have still been a church. It didn’t look like it had been converted at all. That was weird. It wasn’t so old or unusual that it would be a historic landmark and yet it still looked to be a church. A functional church in Amsterdam? Did people actually attend it? It looked like it could have been Catholic or Lutheran, but I couldn’t tell for sure. I couldn’t find any signs with a name or times for services, so maybe it wasn’t functional. If it was, well, that would be a shock. I wondered if the Dutch who attended Christian church services covered their faces by pulling rain coats over their heads, hid under newspapers, or wore dark veils, all in an effort not to be seen by those who knew them as rubes who believed in a God of lightning bolts and thunder or, worse, believed in condemning “heathens” for using condoms and burning atheists and Jews at the stake.

I had lived in too many large urban areas to find the absence of churchgoers unusual, but even cities like San Francisco and Berkeley couldn’t hold a candle to Amsterdam. In all my travels throughout the city and throughout Holland I had never seen functional churches except for the huge, ancient churches like Nieuwe Kerk that were well known as tourist sites. I rarely thought about it, but it was striking when I did. Perhaps it was because I grew up in the United States as a Catholic and the overwhelming majority of people I had met were either Christians or had grown up Christian before realizing they didn’t believe in God—or at least the Christian God. But it was also my knowledge of history. Even in Europe there wasn’t a long history of atheism or non-Christian or non-Judaic belief. The recent generations were as much historical anomalies as the advent of personal computers. Disbelief hadn’t been around as a cultural norm for very long at all.

I wondered about the confluence of advanced technology and greater autonomy as individuals, if they were factors diminishing the historical need for community to survive, especially before the Industrial Revolution but even before World War II. It was really post-war prosperity that created the conditions for an abandonment of religion. Who needed religious community in a world or refrigeration, microwave ovens, and television sets? Interestingly, there seemed to be a demise in union membership and union effectiveness that coincided with the demise of Catholicism and mainline Protestantism in the west. The more recent Christian evangelical movement didn’t have anything that matched the rigorous doctrines and complex beliefs of the former churches; they were more about partisan politics and the momentary ecstasy of “feeling the Lord” in congregations of thousands than dedication to helping the poor, recognizing suffering as a way to maturity and empathy, caring for the sick, building strength of character, and so on. They seemed to have adopted the worst aspects of the old religions such as subjugation of women, fierce anti-abortion politics, hatred of homosexuality, anti-Semitism, authoritarianism, militarization, and so on, but without any of the good aspects that older religions provided.

Like every change of mammoth proportions, the baby may have been thrown out with the bath water. Community was lost in the process, care for the poor and suffering as well. But that described the United States rather than The Netherlands and northern Europe. I didn’t know enough to be able to understand why that was and, as of yet, I hadn’t met anyone locally who had an answer. It was true I hadn’t posed the question much, but now that it was on my mind I wanted to know. Weird how interests shift throughout a day. The environment, always whispering or shouting to keep eyes and ears open. Seeing a church displaced consternation about one-way streets and curiosity about the perplexity of women.

I kept riding along, enjoying the relatively quiest streets, but decided to turn on Dusartstraat. It was marginally busier, but still narrow and went one-way to the south. I cycled a block and came to a delightful little intersection with streets crossing at slightly odd angles, the convergence of two narrow streets with cafés and pubs on the corners. The one across the intersection on the right had outdoor seating. I decided to stop, parking my bike at the rack on the side of the street. It was late afternoon, slightly cooler, but the seats were in the sun.

Just as I was about to cross the street, though, I noticed a coffeeshop called Ocean, appropriately colored white and light blue. I had forgotten to bring my dugout and the thought of getting high sounded good. I walked into the place and up to the counter. I looked at the menu and was shocked at how much lower the prices were than at coffeeshops in the center. White Widow was about three Euros cheaper than I had seen it anywhere else. Still, I wanted a pre-rolled joint since I had no pipe or bat. The woman behind the counter was friendly and greeted me in Dutch and I responded in kind. I tried to order in Dutch but gave up and asked for a pre-rolled mixed joint (part tobacco and part weed) and two grams of White Widow.

I noticed the seating area was empty and that I was the only customer inside. I asked about that and the woman shook her head. “I don’t know.” I asked her about the café next door, if they minded people smoking at their outdoor tables while ordering food or drinks. “I don’t know.” She didn’t know much, this woman. I asked her about churches in the area, if they still functioned as churches. She shrugged her shoulders. She remained pleasant throughout, but I was going crazy. I asked a question that could not elicit anything but a firm response. “Do you think I’m sexy?” She looked at me for moment, not sure how to respond, and then started laughing. Well, at least some emotion.

“You Americans, you are funny. How did you find this spot?” I mentioned I was just roaming around because it was such a nice day. “Yes, but this is far from the center, the tourist areas.” Oh, yeah. “Well, I live here. Not in this neighborhood, but in Amsterdam.” She nodded her head, but said nothing. I took a good luck at the White Widow in the container. “You know, this is really well cut. You do a good job here.” She thanked me for saying so. “Are you paid well for working at a coffeeshop?” Again, she looked at me as if perplexed. “You ask a lot of questions.” I looked around; still nobody else in the place. “Is there somewhere you have to be?” Even though I was smiling she looked exasperated. Amused, but exasperated. “Okay, okay. I’ll leave you in peace. Thanks for the dope.”

I walked out and considered sitting at the café while lighting up but there were a few too many tables filled and I didn’t want to be a jerk. I didn’t know the protocols at outdoor tables. I suppose I could have asked, but I decided to walk down the street while toking. Even in the late afternoon the weather was still great. As I slowly ambled, I thought about how great it was to pay for weed with a credit card. Shrooms, too. I had used both debit and credit cards. I liked the idea that I would receive a statement showing purchases from smart shops and coffeeshops. I thought I might frame them when I returned to the States.

I wouldn’t be leaving Amsterdam for over a month, but as I thought that I felt a pang. That was not a thought worth having. Not yet. Definitely not yet. One of the beauties of this stay was that it was long enough not to think about leaving. I took a long drag off the joint and stopped in the middle of the block to clear my head. I told the woman at the coffeeshop that I lived in Amsterdam and while that was true in a way, it also wasn’t true at all. It didn’t matter. I repeated it to myself again: It didn’t matter.

I took another puff and kept walking. I had a nice high going, about two thirds of the way through the joint, as I walked up to a café with a much larger outdoor seating area at the other end of the block. I put out the joint, returned it to the plastic tube for later, and took a seat at a table near the road. The building came to the corner at an angle, but a good twenty feet from the curb, making a nice triangular space for seating. The positioning of corner of the building stopped at an odd angle from the intersection, provided sun for the whole terrace even with the sun much lower in the sky. I angled my seat away from the sun—I hadn’t worn shades; I wasn’t used to needing them—and waited for a server.

When she came, smiling and carefree, I ordered a Belgian beer from the menu. She asked if I wanted it in a glass and I said yes. Off she went and I sat with my backpack next to me. I remembered that I had a newspaper inside so I took out the International Times and perused. I leafed through and had a wake-up call from the United States. Semi-Super Tuesday, primary voting in Ohio, Texas, Rhode Island, and Vermont. Barack Obama and Hillary Clinton still close. In a way, Whoever won between those two would clobber whoever won the Republican nomination. John McCain? Mitt Romney? Please. After the Democratic beatdown in the 2006 congressional races and the utter fuckups of Bush in his second term, Republicans were doomed.

I was pulling for Obama. For one, I didn’t want another Clinton. Hillary seemed more conservative than Bill and Bill had abandoned universal health care like a hot potato when it looked like it might cost him political points. Fucking pussy. On top of that, he was the most pro-business Democrat I had ever witnessed in my lifetime. NAFTA, transfer pricing, turning his back on unions, cozying up to Wall Street. No, no more Clintons, thank you very much. I didn’t exactly buy Obama’s “Hope” and “Change You Can Believe In” mantras because he backed it up with little other than universal health care and ending the war in Iraq. Still, I believed that as an African American he might be a real progressive and liberal who would shake up the status quo in Washington. I also thought those factors would put him ahead of Hillary in the Democratic primaries. People were clamoring for real change and Clinton was part of old problems that weren’t going away.

I turned out to be right about Obama winning the nomination and general election, but I was dead fucking wrong about him being a progressive or a liberal. His first moves in office were to bail out Wall Street and shore up the banks. He turned out to be worse than Clinton as a pro-business Democrat. It was laughable that he was called a socialist because he followed the Washington Consensus to the letter. I knew his father worked for the CIA and that should have been a red flag, but I didn't realize until after the election that his mother was a deep insider in Washington's political game. What could I have expected from a child of the CIA and a mother who headed the microloan program in Indonesia? A woman heading a microfinance program for the Ford Foundation in Indonesia in the 1960s? Come on, there was no way to land a position like that without being a player. Peter Geithner oversaw the Ford Foundation’s Asia operations, including the microloan program in Indonesia. Timothy Geithner, Peter's son, was Obama’s choice to head the U.S. Treasury. Obama was so far inside the inside that the fact that he was able to brand himself as an aw-shucks golly-gee I’ll-change-things-for-ya candidate was an epic public relations coup. Even into his second term, neither Democrats nor Republicans see him clearly as he is; well, not as far as the general public is concerned. I'm sure they are all well aware of who he really is within D.C.

I didn’t know any of that in 2008, though. I just knew he was a black man who seemed progressive and had a damn good shot at winning the presidential election. More importantly, though, my beer came and it tasted damn good. I turned my chair just enough to watch the sun lower behind the buildings as I drank a couple more brews with my dinner. The pot may have been cheap, but the De Pijp cafes were not. At least not this one. Hard to complain sitting outside in the warm sunshine of early March. As dusk came along and the sky darkened, I paid my bill, walked to my bike, smoking the rest of the joint on the way, and cycled back toward the city. I was just high enough to make cycling dreamlike. I felt like I was in love and. at the moment, it was with De Pijp. Women sometimes made me forget what I valued most. Sitting alone at an outdoor café drinking beer and reading a newspaper as the sun set reminded me that my true love was Amsterdam. 

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Amsterdam Seventy-Five: The Weaker Sex


I slept until 5:00 PM. It felt like trams were screeching over my head every time I moved. I rolled out of bed and fell to the floor, crawling to the living room before forcing myself to my feet. I looked at the coffee table. My pipe was there, but no pot. My day bag was hanging on the back of the dining chair. I zipped it open and stuck my hand inside, swirling it around until I found the bottle. I pulled it out and walked over to the coffee table, popping open the lid and crudely jamming a bud into the bowl. I found the lighter, lit up, and inhaled as hard as I could, holding the smoke in my lungs until I couldn’t any longer. I exhaled then took another hit and as I exhaled the throbbing pain in my head began to dissipate.

I went to the kitchen, opened the fridge, and pulled out a liter of apple juice, drinking a third of it before going to the sink and filling a glass of water. I took the glass with me to the living room, put it on the coffee table, and pulled a cigarette out of its pack. I sat on the couch with the cigarette and an ashtray then opened a window. The air outside was cool. The traffic on the street was light. After finishing my cigarette, I grabbed the bowl again and finished off the bud before lying down and dozing off.

When I woke again it was after eight. I felt better. The glass of water looked appealing. So did the pipe. I put another bud in the bowl, more thoughtfully this time, and toked. As the bud turned orange I let up on the lighter and let go of the carb. Smoke wafted from the mouthpiece as I held the hit in my lungs before exhaling. Much better; no more ecstasy hangover.

The window was still open and it was colder than it had been earlier. I didn’t shut it, though. Instead, I lit a cigarette, looked outside, and saw a buzz of activity heading this way and that. Strange for a Sunday evening. There was a parade of fucking scooters; their whiny whirring drove me nuts. Once the scooter convention slowed, I blew smoke rings while watching the cyclists and pedestrians. It was a mindless activity, an old habit that had never died. I wondered what the neighbors thought of me, but not with any real interest. They could think what they wanted of me. In this country, at least, most neighbors were actually neighborly and if you had a few quirks then you had a few quirks.

I got up and went to the dining table to turn on my computer. I checked email, read a few notes, and surfed a few sites related to Amsterdam before going to the kitchen to heat up a frozen dinner. I watched soccer while I ate and when I was finished eating I took another puff of Cheese. I spent the rest of the night smoking pot and cigarettes watching Dutch TV, wondering if it would be possible to learn any of the language that way. Nope. I got a headache from watching so much overacting, though.

***

I indexed all morning and most of the afternoon. When I finished the history textbook I sent a copy to the publisher along with an invoice. I grilled vegetable kebobs late afternoon then sat on the couch doing nothing at all for an hour. Without lights, the gradual darkening into the evening felt eventful. What in the hell was I doing? There was nothing I needed to do, nothing I wanted to do. I didn’t even feel like smoking pot or shrooming. I went back to the computer and downloaded the PDF for my next indexing assignment and went to work.

***


I made myself a pancake breakfast and indexed the rest of the morning. I left the apartment around noon and cycled south on Utrechtsestraat toward De Pijp to find a new café. The weather was beautiful, sunny and warm. I wore a sweater, possibly my first day without a jacket the whole trip. At the end of Utrechtsestraat, just before Frederksplein, I saw a shop called Boekhandel. I remembered Alex’s recommendation so I went around the corner to find a place to lock up my bike then walked back. I browsed through the shop for a while. There was a section of books in English and I found a copy of Murder in Amsterdam. I went to the counter and purchased the book as well as a copy of the International Times. The shopkeeper was jovial and interesting. He seconded Alex’s opinion that Murder in Amsterdam gave a fair account of the events, especially considering it was popularized nonfiction.

I put the book and the paper in my small backpack then left to retrieve my bike. I rode along the busy bike path of Frederiksplein following behind a woman who was riding her young daughter in a basket at the front of her bike. These front-end baskets—more like boxes—were used to haul everything: groceries, children, flowers, dogs, lamps, tables, chairs, stuffed animals, large backpacks, gift-wrapped presents, and inebriated friends who were unable able to walk. Anything that could fit or be made to fit could be transported by bike in those basket-boxes.

Not every bike with a basket was the same, though. The boxes varied in size and shape, including depth, width, and length. Some baskets were true baskets, the wicker types seen in the United States on the fronts of handlebars; most, though, were big rectangular jobs that separated the front tire from the handlebars. I had seen one shaped like a miniature coffin complete with a lid. I wondered if it was used for funeral processions of dead children or pets. I could easily imagine a procession of well-dressed weeping cyclists in black suits and dresses, even some wearing dark veils, all cycling slowly behind the somber bicycle hearse with its front-end casket, pedestrians on the sidewalks whispering to friends, “Oh, look how tiny the casket is. I hope the little doggy didn’t suffer.”

As for myself, if I was to have a funeral procession in Amsterdam, I would prefer to have my dead body propped up on the front of a tandem bike, my feet and legs tied to the pedals and handlebars, a stiff board under a suit coat keeping my torso straight while embalmed in such a way that I had a creepy, exaggerated smile with my tongue dangling and my eyes bugged out. Maybe a clown afro, too. I would make a will to pay an elderly woman to pedal naked on the back end of the tandem bike. Probably hire pedestrians along the funeral procession route to throw small paint balloons at me, too. I may as well be target practice and a source of morbid fun for the living. I mean, I would be dead. It wouldn’t be me, you know, just a body that had been set up to look weird while being ridden around Amsterdam and turned into a dead-man’s performance art in collaboration with paint-balloon tossers. Why not?

As I passed by the Mommy Bike through the intersection of Flevoroute onto Westeinde I was nearly overcome by a strong urge to tell the woman I was not going to fuck her. Instead, I simply laughed hysterically as I sped past; that might have disturbed her even more. Poor woman, but Piper was the one who planted the thought in my mind. What the fucks was that? Shit, I had been in a daze. It wasn’t just her, though. It dated back to Sterre’s kvetching about me popping a wheelie on Nes. I had spent most of the past two weeks either with women or with the thoughts they had planted in my mind like viruses. Maybe not entirely—I had that one night of extraordinary shrooming.

I hadn’t developed virtue through the process, though; no, I had been cowed, subtly manipulated, consciously or not, by women’s ideas of ethics and decorum. What the fuck was I doing? Why would I give women so much power? This was definitely my fault. I had allowed myself to be formed in the images women had created for me and I didn’t like it one bit. Who was this little boy who wouldn’t cross the street unless the sign said “walk”? Fuck that. Nothing good had ever developed by living according to someone else’s rules or values. At heart, I was irreverent and it was about time I woke up from the stupor. Being soft and gentle wasn’t a bad thing, but too much of it could stifle the spirit. I was being thoughtful for the wrong reasons.

I cycled faster down the bike path and as I passed a young woman dressed in short sleeves I declared my sovereignty by yelling: “Stop raping my mind with your bullshit!” I didn’t look back so I had no idea what her reaction had been. I passed several others as I sped along, but without a need to declare anything more. The one outburst had done the trick. I came to a stop at Stadhouderskade with a gaggle of cyclists. I turned around and saw one young man with shades smirking at me. He had stopped next to the blonde woman who undoubtedly had been ready to harm me through her verbiage or a nasty look. She scowled at me, proving to me that I had been right about her. My demand had gone unheeded and I admitted to myself that women in Amsterdam were waging a campaign of subterfuge against my overall wellbeing. I could not let this insolence stand.

As the light turned and we all pulled forward onto Van Woustraat I rode slowly to allow the hostile one to pull up alongside me. As she did, she said in a thick Dutch accent, “You are rude to yell at me.” I stood my ground, “Do you want me to feel bad about that?” She looked exasperated as we continued cycling side by side. “I don’t care your feeling. You should give respect.” Should, a moral imperative. What gave her the moral authority to demand such a thing? For all I knew she had been manipulating others her entire life. Hell, she could be a child molester. How would I know? I couldn’t take such strict moral advice from a complete stranger, one who may very well have assaulted me with disgust for no reason whatsoever other than sensing that I was an easy target for scorn or ridicule.

I should be respectful? What about you? You gave me a wicked look at the stop light. I wouldn’t call that respectful.” Had I not been consciously focused on my autonomy I may have internalized the look she gave me as an inherent defect in the quality of my being. “The only responsible thing for me to do was to dismiss your scorn out of hand.” To my surprise, she listened attentively. We cycled silently for a few seconds before she said, “I not know I give you mean look. Sorry.”

Holy shit. This was a critical moment. Everything important in terms of my wellbeing and hers hinged on the coming thoughts, words, and actions between us. The ball was in my court and of that I was glad as I trusted myself to handle the situation with ingenuity and empathy. I didn’t want to crush her spirit or allow her to believe that apologizing was necessary; however, I needed to preserve my dignity without sacrificing my integrity. If ever I needed to think as fast as possible philosophically, this was the time.

“The danger in proceeding from here lies in the assignation of blame. We’re in danger of delving into justifications when what I want--and I believe you may, too--is to retain our dignity, to preserve our self-respect, and to proceed with sympathy toward one another. Thus, I cannot accept your apology because I do not recognize a valid reason for you to apologize. I believe it is only through an exploration of motivations that we can determine the sequence of events that resulted in your apology. I cannot, in good conscience, allow you to believe that you have done wrong when that may not have been the case. However, I cannot merely dismiss all that has occurred between us as if it never happened or was of no consequence. I believe it is imperative that we discuss these issues to benefit one another in our respective quests to live the best lives possible. Therefore, I propose that we stop at Village Bagels at the corner up ahead.”

The woman, again, had been listening attentively. Taken alone, this was an indicator that progress could be made between us and within each of us. When I finished speaking she slowly smiled at me and said, “I understand little, but we stop at corner.” The bike rack outside next to the tree was packed, but the side street off of Van Woustraat was lazy so we locked our bikes together near the rack. There were tables outdoors; it had been quite some time since it was warm enough for outside seating. There were only four and each of them had seats for two. Two tables were filled by let-life-pass-us-by-all-day middle-aged fellows and one had a single occupant.

After we locked the bikes, the woman grabbed her bag from her basket. I told her my name was Michael and she introduced herself as Saskia. I told her if she sat at the empty table and waited outside I would order for her. She declined, saying she had a bottle of water and food packed for lunch in her bag so she sat down as I went inside the shop to order a specialty bagel sandwich and a cappuccino. I walked back outside with my food and drink to join Saskia. The building shaded us from the sun and there was a soft breeze. The weather was ideal for an outdoor lunch. I took a bite of the bagel and as I chewed I looked at Saskia, thinking about how to continue the conversation, particularly how to communicate what she hadn’t understood when I was talking while riding. She was sitting quietly with a look of ease, enjoyment, and perhaps amusement over the situation. I was somewhat amused as well, but I wanted to stay focused. It wasn’t often that I’d had an opportunity to pursue a potentially life-altering philosophical discussion with a complete stranger over a series of quasi-hostile events. In fact, this was my first opportunity, at least with a woman.

That was important because part of the issue for me was women. The question of woman had begun as a brief insight and a reactionary explosion, but through those events a real opportunity had arisen. I did not believe Saskia ever would have agreed to stop if she knew my intentions, however noble I perceived them to be. It dawned on me that it was early afternoon and that she might need to be somewhere, work or school, so I asked, “Do you have much time to sit and talk?” She shrugged her shoulders and I said, “Okay,” not knowing what the hell that meant other than maybe, “Depends on what you have to say.”

“I’m going to go over this again. You can apologize if you choose, but if you do you are doing so because you believe your actions were disrespectful and not up to your standards of conduct. That has nothing to do with me. As for me, I don’t know if I regret yelling ‘Stop raping my mind with your bullshit.’ Not yet, anyway. Why? Because I don’t know if it was harmful to either of us for me to yell that.” I took a sip of cappuccino and continued, “I could say more, but you said you didn’t catch much of what I said on the bike so … what are your thoughts?”

Saskia shook her head and laughed uncomfortably. “You talk fast and my English is not so good. I apologize, but you say you no like apology. What I do? You yell for no reason, but I see you mean nothing bad about me so is okay.” Shit, so much for philosophical exploration with a stranger. I didn't want to get lost in the nonacceptance of the apology because I couldn't think of a way to explain in simple English. We could talk for a half hour about that and get nowhere. Instead, I said, “I will speak slower. I didn’t know I talked too fast.” Saskia seemed a little less tense after hearing that. “Yes, better.” I took another bite of my bagel sandwich and contemplated. I had intended to explore the unresolved but powerfully present issue related to women that had bubbled to the surface, but now I was faced with a woman I didn’t know who agreed to stop to have a conversation with me, a man she didn’t know.

This was fucking me up. Had what had occurred been perceived as me exhibiting sexual or romantic interest? I thought it was only men who had bad radar. I hadn’t even noticed her as a sexual being, but now I felt compelled to consider her this way. Why should I feel compelled, though? This isn’t what I wanted. I noticed I found her physically attractive, but I was more interested in exploring my personal dynamics with women, underlying issues, philosophical quandaries. Perhaps I could learn simply by sitting and talking with her. Give her an open-ended question and sit back to listen.

“Why did you agree to stop with me?” I didn’t smile as I said it; the words came out of my mouth as if they were delivered from a detective interrogating a suspect in a serious crime. Saskia, though, took the question in stride. “I want, um, hear what you say, why you no like apology and why you yell at me. Now I understand so is okay.” A smile. “It is beautiful day, perfect for sit outside and do nothing.” Fair. I wasn’t going to get anywhere with my earlier wondering, though. Fuck it. May as well enjoy hanging out in the shade on a warm day with an attractive woman who speaks broken English. There was no fucking rhyme or reason.

I finished my bagel and cappuccino as we sat. I resisted urges to ask Saskia where she had been going to or coming from, where she lived, what she did, and so on. She said nothing, just lazed in her chair while occasionally closing her eyes to relax and enjoy the breeze, perhaps thinking of nothing other than how wonderful it felt to be outside at a temperature more conducive to the body’s comfort. There was no way of knowing. Asking questions had resulted in throw-away answers that went nowhere which, for her, seemed to be the goal--or lack thereof. My bursting moments of rapacious irreverence had been dashed by a lackadaisical woman without a care. Women trumped me at every turn no matter what I did. By not wanting this woman and by treating her as an abstraction I had inadvertently attracted her interest--or at least her presence. I was starting to want her because of this. Damnit.

Perhaps that was it. Women, consciously or not, chose those who didn’t want them to convert them into wanting them so that they could move on to the next object that lacked desire for them and repeat the process, gradually building unwavering self-confidence and empowerment through what might have been accidental conquests. Was this an evolutionary development? Was I doomed to wind up in a powerless state of wanting women no matter what tactic or strategy I adopted to become free and independent of sexual desire? The cards had been stacked against me; I could no more escape my fate as the weaker sex than a swan could escape being a swan. I was Wile E. Coyote and every woman was the Roadrunner. Perhaps Looney Tunes had always had a gendered commentary about the powerlessness of being men in relation to women. And women, possibly designed to be crafty and elusive, had even devised a narrative that convinced the world that they had been the oppressed by creating a branch of philosophy called feminism.

I was in awe even as I trembled in my seat across from Saskia, either pretending not to have a care in the world or actually not having a care in the world because all of her cares could be satisfied without ever having to put forth effort. Fuck, she had gotten inside my head without seeming to do a thing. Genius, although from her perspective it was likely child’s play. I, chimpanzee, trying to figure out how to stack blocks; she, amused by my pointless attempts to stack blocks. Saskia just sat there, sometimes smiling at me and drinking from her water bottle when she wasn’t leaning back in her chair with her eyes closed looking pretty. The nerve! How much longer was I going to allow her to insult me like this!

I stood up and mumbled that I was going to use the WC inside the bagel shop. She nodded without opening her eyes. I walked inside and asked the woman behind the counter if I could have the key to use the WC. “I’m sorry, but men aren’t allowed to use the WC. Only women and cats.” Damnit! Where the hell was I going to piss? I walked back outside frustrated. How could a March day so wonderfully balmy be absolutely maddening? Women, each one of them conspiring against me without conspiring at all. I sat down, my frustration turning my thoughts to pudding. “Why couldn’t I have been homosexual?” Saskia opened her eyes. “It not your fault. You have better luck next life.”